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| Statistics: |
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Start: |
Low Haygarth |
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Start (OS ref): |
SD697967 |
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Map (1:25,000):
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OL19 Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley |
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Parking: |
Parking available at the roadside |
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Distance: |
7.3 miles (11.9 km) |
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Time: |
4 hours |
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Difficulty: |
Moderate |
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Climbing: |
668 metres |
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Hazards: |
Care required descending into Bowderdale |
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Refreshments:
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Sedburgh/ Temperance Inn |
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Route:
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| Summary: The most popular walk in these underrated fells which are, despite being in Cumbria actually part of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. This is a super walk that begins with an ascent onto the fells via the Cautley Spout waterfall. It is a magnificent sight as you approach the spout from the starting point at Low Haygarth situated three miles north-west of Sedburgh on the A683. After walking up the path on the side of Cautley Spout Tongue follow Swere Gill to the Calf and then walk over some of the Howgill Fells before dropping down to Bowderdale. It is probable you will be in solitude on this great walk which is good for you but a shame for those who don't know what they are missing. |
The Story of the Walk:
Another glorious day in the summer of 2003 was the setting for our walk on the Howgill Fells. I was in the company of Deke and Stewart during a weekend break in Sedburgh and as we set out from the starting point at Low Haygarth we were in excellent spirits. The walk is not overly long at just over seven miles but the first two are spent constantly climbing from 176 metres to 676 metres at the trig point on the Calf. The first half is not so taxing as you gently climb to the foot of Cautley Spout at 250 metres. This section was taken leisurely in the morning sunshine and on the way we met the famous wild horses of the Howgill Fells. They continued to graze undisturbed as we walked closely past them on the way to the foot of the spout where the harder work was to begin. The second half of the ascent is very steep climbing 350 metres in height in 800 metres walking, practically a 40% gradient.
At the spout we sat for a while taking in the great views back towards Low Haygarth and the massive expanse of Baugh Fell and Holmes Moss Hill in the distance. That is a bleak and undiscovered place that must be explored in the future. For now though, the Howgills were our place. After our sit down we climbed up the side of Cautley Spout Tongue to the spout itself, not without pauses for breath. Its a steep climb that is started by the aid of a stepped path and finished on the distinct track that rounds the spout and meets Swere Gill. This is a delightful little beck that you follow in a small dip upstream until you are almost at the Calf. We enjoyed our now less steep ascent of Swere Gill taking in a sculptured stone obelisk and wall enclosure before losing Deke temporarily on he ascent to the Calf. Having done his little excursion of exploration we met up with him on the path leading up to the Calf trig point.
At the trig point on the Calf there is a small tarn and that is where we stopped for lunch. While Deke explained the origin of the Bram Stoker Dracula novels to Stewart I attempted the Daily Telegraph crossword. After the story telling the boys tried to assist with some clues and after having lunch, crossword 75% complete, and having watched a chaps dog humorously cool itself in the tarn we moved on across the fells for some distance until we decided it was time to drop down in Bowderdale. we could have followed the track for about two more miles as it leads naturally down into Bowderdale but we decided this was the time for another of those funny moments you enjoy when walking in company and one that we have done before for as the drop into Bowderdale if you leave the track early is a steep one.
What is funny about the descent into Bowderdale is that, not for the first time, we did part on our backsides. The grass was dry and long so it was a comfortable and quick way to get some of the way down. That is until the friction of the drop on our trousers or shorts has started to heat up the cloth and make our bums burn! At that point we got back onto our feet and zigzagged our way down to Bowderdale Beck on the valley floor. I have always found Bowderdale eerily silent and this was no exception. You could only hear a wisping wind, that is until a drone in the distance began to break the silence. The drone became louder and just as I was having a solitude break as the boys had dropped onto he valley about half a mile behind. My privacy was quickly abated as the noise grew even louder and as I turned I saw these two military helicopters rounding a bend just above the ground in my valley of choosing. I quickly dived into the bag for my camera as the helicopters approached and luckily snapped them as they flew past. How close they were is clear in the photograph of one of them I have included on this page. What a brilliant moment.
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