Bowfell, Rossett Pike and The Langdale Pikes

(Guest contribution by John Deasey)

Neal and I were joined today by Steve and SDC. Steve had heard us go on about the delights of the Lakes and the stunning views on offer. We decided to ascend Bowfell via the Climbers Traverse followed by a tour of the Langdales, which would just about be perfect. As the forecast was set fair, we left New Dungeon Ghyll car park bang on 7:30 AM with the full expectation that the clouds hugging the valley would soon clear.

After a gentle warm-up to Stool End Farm, the climb began in earnest up The Band. The early morning light and brooding clouds gave a very moody atmosphere, and we kept promising Steve that everything would be clear by the time we got to the Climbers Traverse and that the views would be incredible.

As we climbed, the clag got worse. As we got higher, it got thicker. By the time we reached the Climbers Traverse, you could see about five yards! All along this thrilling path we kept telling Steve how good the views were, how there was a terrific view across to Pike of Stickle, and how stunning the cliffs above us were—though we could just about make out our hands in front of our faces, so he was a bit sceptical about the whole thing!

After a fairly dodgy section on the Climbers Traverse with hard ice and snow at a 45-degree angle, we reached the Great Slab. It was so iced up we had to scramble the boulder field to one side, which was hard going as we had decided crampons wouldn't be needed today. As it turned out, we would only have required them for 100 yards or so, so no big deal—and it made us feel more adventurous!

On top of Bowfell we pointed out all the highlights to Steve including the Scafells and Crinkle Crags, all the while looking at a blanket of fog just inches in front of us. So far, not so good—but fortunately things were to improve!

We navigated confidently off Bowfell summit and headed for Ore Gap with the intention of going up Esk Pike, then around Esk Hause back to Angle Tarn. As the clag refused to clear, we diverted off the intended route and dropped down the steep boggy path directly from Ore Gap, hoping to arrive at a fog-free Angle Tarn. The clag stuck to us all the way down the very steep slope, and we hardly even saw the tarn until we were right next to it!

Getting a bit fed up with the mist and cloud that refused to lift, we located the path taking us over Rossett Pike and along the fantastic ridge walk around Black Crags to Langdale Combe.

However, as we approached Langdale Combe, we suddenly could see right down onto the Cumbrian Way and Stake Pass, and the clouds started to roll back to reveal stunning views in all directions—Steve was happy now! Looking back to Bowfell, we could clearly see the Climbers Traverse with a line of snow where we had been an hour earlier.

Our next target, Martcrag Moor, came into view, featuring the fascinating small moraine hummocks left by departing glaciers. A quick lunch stop as the clouds cleared lifted our spirits for the next stage.

A lot of work has been carried out on the paths across Martcrag Moor over recent years, but all discomfort was forgotten as soon as we saw the distinctive summit of Pike of Stickle coming into view. An easy scramble up, and we stood on one of the best viewpoints in the Lakes, looking directly into the heart of Rossett Gill with the brooding presence of Bowfell commanding the scene.

Much nonsense was talked on the summit as usual, alongside comedy moments about my camera ineptitude (several shots turned out to be just sky, one of a sheep's foot, and one of the ground!). A short descent to the top of the Dungeon Ghyll path gave us our last climb of the day up to Harrison Stickle, where views down to Pavey Ark and Stickle Tarn were superb in the clear air.

We had intended to visit Pavey Ark to finish off, but the lure of a good pint of ale tempted us down off the mountain. The descent off Harrison Stickle is very steep—Neal and SDC romped down like twelve-year-olds while Steve and I enjoyed a safer, slower descent. We regrouped at the foot of the mountain and relaxed over a very enjoyable pint at the New Dungeon Ghyll. A grand day out!