Nethermost Pike, Dollywaggon Pike, Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Hart Crag, High Pike and Low Pike
A strenuous Lake District ridge walk from Wythburn to Ambleside via Nethermost Pike, Dollywaggon Pike, Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Hart Crag, High Pike, and Low Pike.
Summary: This tough 12-mile linear walk starts from Wythburn near Thirlmere and takes in seven of Alfred Wainwright's Lakeland fells. The first three miles present a continuous, demanding climb to Nethermost Pike, after which shorter hauls lead to Seat Sandal and Fairfield, concluding with a magnificent high-level ridge walk all the way to Ambleside.
The Walk Report
This was not the best of days to be taking a walk to the high fells of Cumbria. Despite promises of good weather later in the day, we were starting early—we being myself, John Lister, Joanne Lister, and John Deasey. John Lister and his wife Joanne were laden with backpacks carrying the full weight they would be taking to Patagonia the following week, while John Deasey and I carried much lighter loads.
Why the early start? It was Friday, and none of us fancied late journeys home competing with Friday afternoon commuters. Setting off into a drizzly start full of expectation, we enjoyed shelter in Wythburn Forest for the first half-mile before emerging onto open fells by Comb Gill. We climbed steadily on, seeing little beyond immediate local views due to the thick cloud.
Forest crossroads near WythburnClimbing to Nethermost Pike at Birk Side
Pausing to look back down toward the forest plantation, plumes of evaporating mist were on the rise, capturing my imagination. Continuing upward, John Deasey and I chatted about our shared love of walking and 1970s prog rock—our first time walking together after getting to know each other online for over a year.
Conversation easily passed the miles. Before we knew it, we had passed Birk Side, completing an hour of hard work, over two miles of distance, and 500 metres of ascent on our way to High Crags.
Mist rising from Wythburn PlantationHauling ourselves up at High Crags
Soon after High Crags we reached the domed top of Nethermost Pike, a contradiction in terms noted by Wainwright: "The summit is of considerable extent and so remarkably flat that it is not easy to understand why the name 'Pike' was given to the fell." While cloud blocked distant views, Wainwright's notes describe fine prospects east, south, and west.
Approaching the summit of Nethermost PikeJohn Deasey is a man on the edge
From Nethermost Pike it was an easy twenty-minute walk south to Dollywaggon Pike, which shares a similar flat summit character. Descending its western slope, John Lister took a slight stumble and broke one of his walking poles—requiring a replacement for Patagonia!
From the lowest point, we made a straightforward climb to Seat Sandal before dropping east toward Grisedale Tarn to stop for lunch.
Finally claiming Dollywaggon PikeGrisedale Tarn briefly appears through the mist
After a 20-minute lunch break, we tackled the tough, short climb up Fairfield (240 metres of ascent in one kilometre). John Deasey and I took the lead while John Lister and Joanne hauled their heavy backpacks in stride. From Fairfield, we progressed past Link Hause toward Hart Crag.
The steep ascent to Fairfield takes its tollSteady descent at Link Hause to Hart Crag
Passing Dove Crag and Thack Bottom Edge toward High Pike, a semblance of visibility finally manifested. Breaking through the gloom as we reached Low Pike—our seventh and final Wainwright fell—pockets of blue sky appeared, the clouds lifted, and the waters of Lake Windermere shimmered below!
High Pike appears out of the cloudJohn follows the wall to Low Pike
Low Pike appears out of the gloomLow Pike
Below us lay Ambleside, our finishing point. Descending the tricky steps of High Brock Crags, Low Brock Crags, and Sweden Crag, we entered High Sweden Coppice and Low Sweden Coppice. Crossing Scandale Beck at Low Sweden Bridge, we passed Nook End Farm where sheep eagerly swarmed for feeding time before heading into Ambleside. A fantastic, challenging walk!
Seeing the way down to AmblesideA mix of natural and man-shaped landscape
A jumble of branchesMoss fills in the gaps on top of the wall