Lodore, Watendlath, Rosthwaite, Seatoller and Grange

A wonderful low-level walk of Borrowdale in the Lake District combining Lodore, Watendlath, Rosthwaite, Seatoller, and Grange into a fantastic 8.6-mile circuit.

Start Point
Lodore
Grid Ref: NY261180
Total Distance
8.6 miles (13.8 km)
Total Climbing
614 metres
Estimated Time
4 – 5 hours
Difficulty Grade
Hard

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring the North Western Fells:
Summary: A wonderful low-level walk in Borrowdale fashioned by combining three smaller one-way walking trails into an 8.6-mile loop. Providing great views after moderate ascents, the route starts behind High Lodore Farm on the Borrowdale Road south of Keswick and takes in Watendlath, Rosthwaite, Seatoller, and Grange. *(Contributed by Di and Hans Carlen)*

The Walk Report

(Guest contribution by Di and Hans Carlen)

We like to walk loops and found many one-way hikes in the Lake District, so we fashioned this 8.6-mile loop out of three smaller one-way walking trails joined together. The walk provides great views after moderate ascents. We started with a trail in perfect walking conditions from behind High Lodore Farm, which is on the Borrowdale Road next to the Borrowdale Hotel, about 4 miles south of Keswick. An alternative start for motorists can be from any village on the route.

At the back of High Lodore Farm is a gate and rocky path with switchbacks up the ridge behind the farm, heading west into the Watendlath valley. This was a bit of a challenge first up with a steep rocky climb to the saddle of the ridge and a small descent at the beck with some falls on your left. We stopped here to admire the beck and mossy forest and get our breath back. Some instructions we read suggested we should be on the other side of the falls, but this seemed wrong: do not cross the falls! We kept the beck on our left and continued up the winding path through a small gate and a gap in the crags to our right.

About half a mile later we came to a wooden footbridge at the start of the Watendlath valley. This hike has a unique directional marker at a 3-way junction—a metal triangle in the ground. We went right toward Watendlath (south/south-east), not over the bridge.

Di relaxes near Watendlath Beck after the first climb
Di relaxes near Watendlath Beck after the first climb
Fly fishing in Watendlath Tarn
Fly fishing in Watendlath Tarn

The walk passes through several gates (in a variety of forms) and skirts the right-hand side of a stone wall as it climbs further into the valley. This section can be a little boggy after rain, but we didn't find any of it difficult. On the way to Watendlath it was relatively easy walking as the climb is very gradual.

The hamlet of Watendlath is on the other side of some small falls and the beck. Not much activity in town, but a nice spot to stop for a break anyway. Keep to the path on the right and shortly you reach Watendlath Tarn, which appears to feed the beck.

The old packhorse road to Watendlath
The old packhorse road to Watendlath
Hans on the packhorse road, which we had to ourselves
Hans on the packhorse road, which we had to ourselves

Keeping the tarn to our left, we followed the signs uphill toward the Borrowdale Valley and Rosthwaite village. The path is a bit rocky, but again, not too hard walking. It was up, up, up again for a while—about 400 feet—until we reached the top, and then of course it was down, down to Rosthwaite village!

We were heading to Rosthwaite and took our time as it was a steep rocky track (walking poles would have helped!). When you see the Rosthwaite sign, go right through the gate and follow this path down to the village (ignoring the first few farm gates, which caused us a small detour).

Above Borrowdale with Rosthwaite in the picture
Above Borrowdale with Rosthwaite in the picture
Di uses the chains on the section near Johnny's Wood
Di uses the chains on the section near Johnny's Wood

When we came to a minor road, we turned right, went over the bridge, and were back on Borrowdale Road. This marked the end of the first section (about 3 miles long). Crossing Borrowdale Road, we turned right into Rosthwaite village and headed toward The Flock In Walkers Tea Room for a well-earned hot drink.

Section 2 left the tea room along the road immediately opposite. About 100 metres along, a tin shed on the right has a footpath running beside it heading to Longthwaite YHA. We followed these signs through a paddock, out the other side, and turned right at some whitewashed houses.

The mountain bike race course near Rosthwaite
The mountain bike race course near Rosthwaite
Enjoying a well earned break at the Flock in, Rosthwaite
Enjoying a well-earned break at The Flock In, Rosthwaite

The walk continues south-west near the River Derwent, past the front door of Borrowdale YHA and into Johnny's Wood. All was easy going until the track narrowed and got rocky, requiring a bit of scrambling where chains were helpfully provided for hand-holding on the first section.

Passing a large wooden building and sheds on our left, we went right through a kissing gate, immediately left along the path, and walked toward Seatoller. Soon we saw a farmer's gravel trail heading uphill to our right and followed it northwards.

A steep climb near Seatoller
A steep climb near Seatoller
Hans looks back to the steep hill just descended
Hans looks back to the steep hill just descended

At the top we joined a gravel track on Borrowdale Terrace and followed it uphill past stone walls and gates. Keeping our gained height, we headed west until we saw a well-walked gravel trail heading almost due north, parallel to the Borrowdale Road about 600 feet above on the western side. These trails eventually joined the main path from Seatoller to Castle Crag.

Section 3—the Seatoller/Castle Crag trail—is very popular and well-travelled. Continuing north, we found Castle Crag on our right, where you can add a small detour to climb for unimpeded views.

Stone walls and gates on Borrowdale Terrace
Stone walls and gates on Borrowdale Terrace
Scree on the slope of Castle Crag
Scree on the slope of Castle Crag

The main trail here is the old quarry toll road, featuring a stable slope with embedded rocks. Descending toward Derwent Water and the hamlet of Grange, you'll find lovely tearooms for late lunch or afternoon tea.

To finish, cross the old stone bridge, turn left onto Borrowdale Road, and walk about 600 metres back to High Lodore Farm. (Alternatively, turn left at the minor road toward Manesty to use the boardwalk "duck boards" over the marshes and a metal footbridge over the River Derwent, bringing you out just north of the farm).

Di on the old toll road towards Derwent Water
Di on the old toll road toward Derwent Water
Di on the duck boards near Grange
Di on the duck boards near Grange
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