Buttermere, Crummock Water, Red Pike, High Stile and High Crag

I first walked the long line of high mountains separating Ennerdale Water from Buttermere and Crummock Water during the second stage of my high-level Coast to Coast walk in 1999. I had been smitten that day by the vast spread of high ground on the western side that narrows as you are channelled eastward across the mountain barrier. I particularly remembered reaching the high point on dishevelled High Stile and the awesome, gob-smacking moment looking down from Gamlin End just beyond High Crag. Wanting to revisit those moments, I returned 18 years later.

Leaving my car in the parking area just above Wainwright's chapel in Buttermere, I walked through the village onto the path leading to the north-west tip of Buttermere Water, taking in the serene morning view across the lake to Fleetwith Pike.

Following the path parallel to Buttermere Dubs where the watercourse flows into Crummock Water, I reached Scale Beck and began the 440-metre climb to Lingcomb Edge. Hauling myself up in stages alongside Scale Beck, I passed below Scale Force and watched the clouds lift off Mellbreak and reveal Starling Dodd and Great Borne.

Reaching Lingcomb Edge at 550 metres, I rested and took in the view across the valley toward the Knott Rigg ridge and Robinson. Climbing steadily along the east edge of the massif brought me to Red Pike.

As I walked toward High Stile, cloud swept in across Ennerdale and briefly hovered over High Stile before dispersing. Reaching High Stile (807m)—making it into Wainwright's Top 30—the panoramic view north-west across Bleaberry Tarn and Crummock Water to the Solway Firth was breathtaking.

Following the woe-begone series of old iron fence posts across the stony top toward High Crag, the narrow shelf between High Stile and High Crag offered staggering views down into Buttermere on one side and Ennerdale on the other, including the Black Sail Hut and Ennerdale Water.

Descending from High Crag past Gamlin End to Seat, I enjoyed the dramatic view toward Haystacks before dropping down to Scarth Gap and returning along the west bank of Buttermere back to the village. A truly stellar mountain day!