Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc is one of the most popular long-distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc Massif, covering a distance of roughly 170 km with 10 km of ascent and descent, and passes through parts of Switzerland, Italy, and France. Having already been to the foot of Everest high up in the Himalayas, this seemed to be the next logical step for me in my quest to walk some of the best available long-distance walks the world has to offer. This is my account of a fantastic adventure with wonderful scenery and great company. I hope you enjoy it.

(Note: This walk is kindly contributed by Neal Lever)

The Alps

Day 12 — 4th July 2012

We make an early start for the toughest day so far. I eat plenty of breakfast because I know I will need the fuel, having already discussed with Graham the ascent we are about to make: the infamous Col de Tricot. This is the steepest single climb that you do on the Mont Blanc round — it is 560 metres (1837 ft) of a no-reprieve traversing footpath. From the campsite we walk back into Les Contamines where Graham allows me a short while to deviate to an ATM to withdraw some cash to pay Lee back for his kindness and the purchase of my new boots. I cannot resist as one of the early morning bakeries is open and the inviting smell overwhelms me; I purchase a chocolate croissant and begin to eat it on my way back to join the group. The jealousy in the group's preying eyes was a picture! Lee was drooling, so I gave him a bite — after all, if it was not for him I would not have had my new boots. The climb out of town was steep, which was setting a precedent for the day, I feel. We soon leave the buildings in exchange for woodland — spruce, of course; the scent is unmistakable. There are wildflowers also, which have been in abundance throughout the holiday.

Weaving through the forests Weaving through the forests
Alpine clearing and refreshments Alpine clearing and refreshments

After a couple of hours or so we come to an all-too-familiar alpine clearing and our first stop for the day at the Chalets du Truc. The view from here is magnificent — you can see back down the valley to Les Contamines and beyond. Looking upward and in the direction we are next to walk towards is the mountain peak of Aiguille de Bionnassay, which is hiding the summit of Mont Blanc. It is a brief stop here, although I could have stayed on much longer with the morning sun in full glory. It was not much more of a climb through open mountain pasture with vistas to die for before we drop down a few hundred feet to the village of Miage — a small village only accessible by four-wheel drive or helicopter. Actually, there was a helicopter dropping provisions off and also taking tourists the short flight up to the summit of Mont Blanc. We walk right past the by now motionless helicopter called Lilymarie with a wartime scantily-clad lady strewn down the whole fuselage. Most of the boys have a closer and agreeable gawp — yep, she's a babe, as we all have an agreeable nod!

As we walk through the picturesque town you can clearly see the monstrous climb looming ahead of us in the guise of the pre-mentioned Col de Tricot. We stop at a gate and Graham sets the task. He informs us that the record time to the top is 36 minutes, and there is no way on earth that I will come any way near that! A few set their watches and they are off. Big Kevin sets off running, which is a little ambitious, one feels; still, he is soon well ahead, but the ever-present Keith — a true mountain man — is reeling him in like a helpless fish with only one destination: to be eaten!

Sexy Helicopter Sexy helicopter
Col de Tricot from Miage Col de Tricot from Miage

When I eventually reach the top having replaced three lungs and a dodgy knee, I arrive in a respectable fourth place and in 47 minutes. I learn that Keith smashed the record in a little over 31 minutes — my immediate thoughts are to test him for illegal substances, but the truth of the matter is that he is just that fit! Kevin was indeed beaten, but not by much. Lee arrives in just under an hour with the sounds of the Rocky theme tune playing on his iPhone and doing push-ups, which was to everyone's amusement. He collapses, and while gasping for air a few descriptive expletives were shouted out, closely followed by apologies to everyone in earshot.

Eventually we are all gathered together and eating lunch: cheese and red peppers all smothered in pesto sauce on French bread. Well, it works for me! The views here are once again stunning. You can clearly see the town of Miage that sits on an old hanging glacial valley that once was locked in by another larger glacier. What a beautiful vantage point we are at — the power and sheer mass of mountains are close here.

Col de Tricot, one hell of a climb Col de Tricot — one hell of a climb
Rosie at the top of Col de Tricot Rosie at the top of Col de Tricot

Downhill at last, and everyone is visibly pleased — especially Rocky! To our right as we descend high in the mountains you can see the newly refurbished Refuge du GoĆ»ter, a state-of-the-art mountain refuge used for acclimatisation before the ensuing ascent of nearby Mont Blanc. There are many mountain refuges, but none quite like this one as it is self-sufficient for energy and water, and able to withstand winds of up to 300 kph (186 mph). I would stay here for sure as I have plans to climb Mont Blanc sometime in the near future.

Glacier de Bionnassay Glacier de Bionnassay
Bionnassay suspension bridge Bionnassay suspension bridge

It is a dusty, dry path on our descent through open pastures stippled with flora. We are walking really close to the Glacier de Bionnassay, which is a spectacular route down, especially when you cross the Bionnassay suspension bridge and look up to the end of the moraine.

As we drop further down we come to the Col de Voza and we are now back in the Chamonix Valley. Here you can catch the train or the cable car down to the village of Les Houches; Kevin and his father take that option, and we eventually meet them in a bar in town. From here you catch the bus to the campsite at Les Bossons, which is where we will be based for the rest of the trip. The bar is a sight for sore eyes, and we all relax in a small but pleasant decking area at the rear of the bar before catching the bus back to the campsite.

Dinner and an early night for me, as the day certainly took its toll.

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