Low Fell and Fellbarrow from Thackthwaite

I would never have thought about these fells had it not been for the exciting challenge of completing Alfred Wainwright's 214 fells, brilliantly described in his pictorial guide series. Lil bought me the complete set for Christmas 2007, and ever since, I've been self-motivated to complete them all.

Fellbarrow and Low Fell sit alone—a meek range dwarfed by the Grasmoor and Mellbreak massifs bordering the edge of Crummock Water. Yet these fells possess a distinct charm. As Wainwright himself wrote: "The traverse of the Fellbarrow range on a clear sunny day is one of the most rewarding of the simpler fell walks, although not often undertaken. Its particular merit, apart from the easy going, is the beautiful view of the Buttermere-Crummock valley, which is seen to perfection."

After reading Wainwright's affectionate tribute, I was salivating! Lil wasn't particularly looking forward to walking after a fun weekend in Kendal with friends, but I was resolute. By picking one of the easier walks, I hoped to win her round.

We started out from the tiny village of Thackthwaite after finding parking just outside. Walking due west, we passed through a coppice lane and across open fields onto the fellside. Lil was already feeling tired, her stamina flagging after the weekend. Despite this, she kept me company as we skirted the fellside, soon gaining our first view of Fellbarrow—a lush, green rounded dome bearing more resemblance to a Howgill Fell than a rugged Lakeland top.

After rounding the hillock topped by Watching Crag, we reached a gate near Sourfoot Fell. Deciding to ease Lil's load, I pointed her toward Smithy Fell ahead: "Walk there at leisure and wait for me while I complete Low Fell. I'll be about half an hour." She happily agreed, saving herself 100 metres of climbing and descent.

As she set off to her waiting spot, I climbed the zigzags up Watching Crag and headed due south toward Low Fell. Past Watching Crag, the panoramas began unfolding before me.

First into view were Grasmoor, Whiteside, and Hopegill Head, bordering the eastern flank of Crummock Water. These impressive peaks were soon joined by Mellbreak on the western side of the lake and the Buttermere fells beyond—including Red Pike and High Stile, familiar friends from my 1999 Coast to Coast walk.

As I climbed higher to the diminutive 423-metre summit of Low Fell, its lack of height proved to be an asset: the vista looking south-east over Crummock Water and Buttermere was truly spectacular. Wainwright had been spot on!

After lingering on Low Fell to enjoy the moment, I turned back to collect my wife. I scampered back to Watching Crag, spotted Lil waiting patiently, and headed north along a fence line to reunite with her.

Knowing she had no energy for another climb, I told her to skirt the southern and eastern flanks of Fellbarrow while I dashed up to claim the summit. After a sharp pull into a stiff breeze on the top, I took in the sweeping west coast views—complete with wind turbines dotting the distant coastline—before hurrying down out of the wind toward Meregill Beck.

Re-collecting Lil for the second time, we ambled back down the grassy track to Thackthwaite. Despite her low energy, Lil enjoyed parts of the walk, though she missed out on Low Fell's grand vista. For me, the walk was a thrilling and undemanding adventure. As Wainwright noted, Low Fell offers "a perfectly composed view of mountain and lake scenery. A connoisseur's piece." Spot on!