Summary: This walk requires precise navigation and regular position checking, as paths can occasionally be unobvious or hidden. There are also sections of tougher walking where gorse and fern have overgrown less-frequented paths. These points aside, the walk provides tremendous views of surrounding fells and spectacular prospects over Ullswater, incorporating a stretch along the historic Roman High Street road.
The Walk Report
After three marvellous dry and mainly sunny days walking in the Lake District on the 'Boys' 2nd Annual Lake District Walking Adventure', we woke on the final day to find the weather had deteriorated. As we breakfasted at our super Glendale Guest House in Penrith, we looked out on overcast skies and rain. Steve remarked, "I have never been on a walking break in the Lake District without a day's walking in rain!"
He had been convinced today would be a lowland venture around a lake, but the forecast pointed to improving skies, and I wasn't giving up on the planned route yet. The walk planned was on the fells south of Ullswater starting from Howtown or Martindale. If things proved terrible, we could always revert to climbing Hallin Fell and exploring lakeside paths. But I was optimistic, and to their credit, Steve, Chris, and Dave were too.
We stopped at the temporary Morrisons supermarket in Penrith for food and drink while rain still piddling down, but as we drove toward Pooley Bridge and along the south shore road toward Howtown, things improved. The rain stopped and the cloud level climbed over 1,000 feet. We decided to go for it!
Cotehow Cottage at the head of MartindaleThe Nab is shrouded in cloud as we start to climb
Our night out in Penrith had been a rather wild affair, so after parking near Martindale Church, we weren't rushing to get moving. Spirits were high, though bodies were less sprightly as we set off at a stuttering pace just as a drizzling rain began.
As we walked into the enclosure of Martindale, The Nab stood directly before us with cloud hovering near its summit, though the cloud base was lifting toward 1,500 feet. Unfortunately, a passing raincloud caught us directly as we ascended from Martindale toward Brownthwaite Crag. The narrow path through wet ferns was uncomfortable, forcing us to don raincoats for the only time on the trip. Rain ran down my trousers, percolating into my socks and filling my boots.
Feeling eager, I made good ground—which unfortunately led to a slight navigational hiccup!
Brownthwaite Crag ahead, I had gone too far......to turn back to complete the ascent of Steel Knotts
We strode through the fern line past Brownthwaite Crag. Then a nasty thought hit me: I remembered that Steel Knotts was one of the key fells planned for the day, and by taking our direct line past Brownthwaite Crag, we had walked right past it!
Steve and Chris were 50 yards ahead. Checking the map, I told Dave, "Dave, I must go back and bag Steel Knotts while I'm here." Dave misunderstood, thinking my goal was simply the top of Brownthwaite Crag a mere 100 yards away. Steel Knotts was actually almost a kilometre back!
Without hesitation, I turned around and bounded back toward the target. Reaching Steel Knotts, it was well worth the effort. Wainwright described its summit tor (Pikeawassa) as having "the sharpest summit in Lakeland, for the rock tor that crowns the top is so acute that only very agile walkers will be able to stand upon it." Its view over the confluence of the remote Rampsgill and Bannerdale valleys is superb.
Gowk HillLooking back to Steel Knotts from Wether Hill
As I rounded Brownthwaite Crag for the second time, I spotted the three amigos about half a mile ahead. Cloud cover had lifted, clearing the top of Wether Hill just as I rejoined the group near Keasgill Head on the High Street Roman Road. Though I was scolded for going off without warning, I was chuffed—standing atop Steel Knotts had been a brilliant highlight.
Rejoined, we lunched by a stone wall for shelter from the wind on the open fell. With the day's climbing largely done, a high-level walk over Wether Hill and Loadpot Hill awaited.
Summit cairn on Wether HillStriding out towards Loadpot Hill
Strolling along the Roman road, I imagined I was Caesar with Dave, Chris, and Steve forming my Praetorian Guard. We conquered imaginary savages while walking over the humps and bumps of Loadpot Hill, an area strewn with ancient antiquities.
Striking a pose at the Loadpot Hill trig pointThe view of Ullswater from Arthur's Pike
Passing close to Swarthbeck Gill and Moor Divock, we headed toward Arthur's Pike. Arthur's Pike marks the northern termination of the High Street range, offering fabulous unbroken views south and west to the Helvellyn and Fairfield ranges. I pointed out the Dodds and Clough Head from the previous day.
Looking north, Ullswater and Pooley Bridge glittered in the afternoon sunshine as the weather finally broke into a glorious sunny afternoon. Steve got his wish: four superb walking days in the Lake District! Cutting across to nearby Bonscale Pike provided similar sublime lake views before we began our descent.
From Bonscale Pike, we needed to descend to Howtown down a remarkably steep flank. After scouting around, Chris spotted a viable path down. Descending required careful braking to save our knees, but our efforts were rewarded by incredible lake views and the sight of an Ullswater Steamer pulling into Howtown Pier.
A Peacock Butterfly feasts on BuddleiaThe tangled up dog
Nearing the finish, we encountered a comical sight: a couple whose dog's leash had become hopelessly tangled in a clapper bridge while trying to take a dip in the beck. After helping free their pet, we enjoyed perfect views of Hallin Fell before completing our four-day holiday. A wonderful, highly personal walk!
