The Church of St Michael with St Mary is one of the most splendid Norman churches in England. It was built around 1120, possibly as a royal chapel for Henry I, and has been little altered. The massive pillars of the nave arcade are particularly impressive, as is the chevron moulding on the doorways and arches. There are some interesting carvings on the capitals in the chancel, including a grinning cat, a snarling dog, and an ostrich.
Opposite the main door, to the right of the vicarage, a plaque marks the site for the Old Smithy, where Robert Bakewell, the celebrated ironsmith, set up his forge in 1707.
Not far away is Melbourne Hall. It is privately owned, but well worth a visit in its open season. There are delightful rooms with pictures and furnishings from the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1837, a tiny settlement on the banks of the Yarra Yarra River in Australia was named Melbourne, after the second Lord Melbourne, who lived in the hall. Well known as Queen Victoria's first Prime Minister, Lord Melbourne was also the husband of Lady Caroline Lamb, the most daring and scandalous woman of the age. She had a disastrous affair with Lord Byron, whom she pursued relentlessly, even attempting suicide to capture his affection.
The formal garden is one of the most famous in Britain, designed by Thomas Coke in the 17th century. It was ambitiously planned "to suit with Versailles". Although not large, it contains, among other delights, a "Four Seasons" monument that was reputedly the gift of Queen Anne, the longest yew tunnel in Europe, a lime walk, and a formal pool across which stands Robert Bakewell's magical wrought-iron birdcage. The route passes through the gates on Pool Road. On the right is Melbourne Pool, an attractive artificial lake enlarged from a medieval millpond in the 18th century.
You continue across mixed farmland and woodland, and rejoin the road near Scotland's Farm, over the border into Leicestershire. Views of the countryside to the east are dominated by the Church of Breedon on the Hill on its lonely crag. By Melbourne Lodge, a path descends from the road to Staunton Harold — "Staunton" after a local name for the limestone hereabouts, and "Harold" after a 12th-century Lord of the Manor. The village has long since disappeared; all that remain are the hall and the church facing each other in a picturesque wooded valley with a lake.
The manor came to the Shirley family by marriage in 1423. The present hall, begun in 1763 by Washington Shirley, the 5th Earl Ferrers, is not open to the public. It was used as a home for the disabled and by the Sue Ryder charity before being returned to the Shirley family as their ancestral home in 2003. Despite the house being private, there are pleasant strolls to be had around the grounds, and the former stables are now home to the Ferrers Centre for Arts and Crafts which includes fifteen workshops and studios, plus a delicatessen and restaurant.
Staunton Harold's church was founded during the Commonwealth by Sir Robert Shirley. An ardent royalist, Shirley soon fell foul of Oliver Cromwell and died in the Tower of London. But the church survived. Gothic in its architecture and Jacobean in its furniture and fittings, it has many interesting features, including a carved tablet to the memory of Sir Robert over the west door. The painted wooden ceiling showing the Creation is signed by Zachary and Samuel Kyrk, and dates to 1655. The hangings and cushions are contemporary, as are the organ and the early wood-framed clock. The splendid wrought-iron chancel grille was made by Robert Bakewell in 1711. The 17th-century custom of separating the men into the southern pews (with hat pegs) and the women into the northern pews is still observed in the church today.
A country lane takes you through Dimminsdale, an attractive nature reserve set in a wooded valley, with an interesting industrial past. On a hot day, the woods provide welcome shade and coolness.
Beyond is Calke Abbey, an 18th-century mansion set in parkland on the site of an Augustinian priory. Largely unchanged for the past hundred years, it was restored by public appeal and the National Trust in the 1980s, and was then opened to the public for the first time.
It was the seat of the Harpur-Crewe family, who had a colourful history. A number of them were decidedly reclusive and eccentric, and several were passionate collectors. Sir Vauncey Harpur-Crewe (1846–1924) devoted himself to his passion for butterflies, birds, and hunting. His large and exotic collection is now on view to visitors. The gardens, too, are interesting. There are fine views of the mansion as the walk passes through superb rolling parkland on the way to the tranquil Mere Pond, a haven for waterfowl.
The final part of the walk is through undulating farmland, with views of Staunton Harold Reservoir to the right, before you descend through tranquil meadows to the quiet back streets of Melbourne, which take you back to the start of the walk.
