The town's theatre flourished in the 1700s and was well known to the actor David Garrick. Performances were no doubt witnessed by the French author Chateaubriand, who lived in Bungay after escaping the French Revolution (he stayed with the Ives family in Bridge Street and taught French at Beccles College).
Among the town's many interesting buildings are the Butter Market, the 12th-century St Mary's Church, Holy Trinity Church, and some attractive houses in Bridge Street.
Bungay had a castle before the Romans arrived, but the present castle dates from after the Norman Conquest. It passed to Roger Bigod in 1103, and his son Hugh built the stone keep, the walls of which are 18 feet (5.5 metres) thick and about 90 feet (27 metres) high.
The Bigod family, who owned most of the surrounding area, argued violently with the Crown, and Henry II ordered the castle to be destroyed. In the south-west corner of the ruined keep is a "mine gallery" — a system of tunnels built into the masonry to enable Henry's men to set fire to the timbers and burn the castle. However, the Bigods managed to prevent this by paying a huge levy to the Crown.
In the 15th century, the castle was bought by the Duke of Norfolk and remained in his family until being given to the council in 1988.
Along the river path near the start of the walk, there are many wildflowers in summer, including teasels, water forget-me-not, watercress, and hemp agrimony (a tallish plant with reddish-mauve or whitish flowers once renowned as a good wound-healing herb applied like a poultice). Dog roses and ragwort can also be found along the banks, while swans and their cygnets frequent the river and herons can be spotted in the adjoining meadow.
Further along, you come to the village of Earsham, once owned by the Bigod family. The Otter Trust, where the public can see and learn about these fascinating animals, is situated on the outskirts about half a mile west of the route, offering waterfowl on the lakes and pleasant riverside walks.
There are vineyards north of Earsham, and it is said that they have existed in the area since Roman times (Roger Bigod owned extensive vineyards in 1240). Beyond the vines is a series of lakes on the site of former gravel workings, now used by fishermen and water skiers, with quieter stretches serving as a haven for many waterbirds.
In Georgian times, a cold spring bath was created on the south-facing Bath Hills, and Bungay became a spa town. Halfway up the hill is Cold Bath House, where Lilias Rider Haggard, daughter of the famous author Sir Henry Rider Haggard, lived. Lilias wrote from personal experience about the countryside she loved and the people who lived there. From the path, there are fine views across the Waveney Valley and Bungay.
A driveway leads to Ditchingham Lodge, where Sir Henry Rider Haggard lived as well as at Ditchingham House where he farmed. Besides being a novelist (writing books such as King Solomon's Mines), he was an expert on agriculture and social conditions in Britain, and took a keen interest in the Salvation Army before being knighted in 1912 and dying in 1929.
On the edge of Outney Common stood Mill House, where George Baldry — a much-loved local character — lived until the 1950s. His autobiography, The Rabbitskin Cap, was edited by Lilias Rider Haggard (the title refers to a cap his mother made in his childhood which became his most treasured possession). George's life revolved around the Waveney Valley; a mechanical wizard who invented perpetual motion devices that never worked, he was also an expert thatcher, reed-basket maker, and boat and bridge builder, though Mill House has since been demolished.
Bungay has long been famous for its printing works; across the road are Clays' modern printing works. The firm was founded by schoolmaster John Brightley in 1795, and a grocer's assistant from Norwich named J.R. Childs once worked for him, driving a tandem and cart all over England selling their books.
