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West Stow Country Park, Larkford Lakes, Brockley Corner and Culford

A Nature Reserve and Ancient Settlement on the Edge of Breckland

East Anglia's Breckland, straddling Norfolk and Suffolk, has a distinctive character shaped by geography and history. During the last Ice Age, the area — essentially a wide chalk basin — was spread with glacial deposits, which were subsequently broken down and washed away, leaving behind a shallow surface layer of fine sand. As these loose light soils supported only a sparse covering of trees, they were easily cleared and cultivated.

This encouraged settlement, and by Neolithic times Breckland had become one of Britain's most densely populated regions. But because the thin sour sands were soon exhausted, a system of shifting cultivation developed, and at the same time livestock became more important than arable farming. Fields were cropped for just a few years, then abandoned and new areas cleared, gradually transforming Breckland into a vast heath given over to grazing.

From Roman times onwards, sheep assured Breckland's prosperity and during the Middle Ages played a vital role in East Anglia's thriving wool industry. In the 13th century, sheep were joined by rabbits introduced from France and farmed in warrens for fur and meat; many escaped, and towards the end of the Middle Ages overgrazing and rampant burrowing totally destabilised the fragile topsoil, exposing it to wind erosion. Sand "blows" and floods devastated the landscape so that travellers described Breckland as "a desolate barren treeless waste of shifting sand".

Today, Breckland has changed yet again with arable fields, army ranges, and conifer plantations. Here and there, one finds fragments of sandy heath, a reminder of Breckland's windswept past.

Start Point
West Stow
Grid Ref: TL 82017 70464
Total Distance
8.2 miles (13.2 km)
Total Climbing
69 metres
Estimated Time
3–4 hours
Difficulty Grade
Moderate

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring Thetford Forest in the Brecks:

The Walk Report

West Stow Country Park, where the walk begins, covers 125 acres on the southern edge of Breckland. The park and neighbouring Lackford Lakes Nature Reserve offer a variety of habitats — including heath, plantation, woodland, river, and lake — and claim over 300 plant species. Many of these, such as maiden pink, sand sedge, and mossy tillaea, are Breckland specialties well adapted to the region's low rainfall and sandy soil. Around 120 different species of birds have been seen, with Lackford Lakes particularly important for wintering wildfowl (including the relatively rare gadwall), while the River Lark is a thoroughfare for many migrating birds. Toads, weasels, hares, muntjac, and roe deer are just some of the animals frequenting the park, though most are shy and seldom seen. At the heart of the country park is the Anglo-Saxon village of West Stow.

From the country park, the first section of the walk goes through King's Forest, the southernmost part of Thetford Forest. Thetford, one of the very first forests established by the Forestry Commission, is now the country's largest lowland forest and premier pine forest. As well as conifers, there are belts of broadleaves, especially beech, oak, and sycamore. Clear-felling started in the early 1970s when the first plantations were some fifty years old, so the forest now presents a vast mosaic of distinct habitats ranging from newly felled sites to mature stands sheltering a wide variety of wildlife.

The bird population includes nightjars, woodlarks, and tree pipits in clear-felled areas, and woodland species such as goldcrest, siskin, crossbill, long-eared owl, sparrowhawk, and goshawk among the pines.

Part of the route through King's Forest follows the Icknield Way path. Probably the country's oldest road, the Icknield Way curves across England from Norfolk to Wiltshire following a natural line of chalk. In prehistoric times it was not a well-defined track, but rather a broad swathe of downland safe above low-lying marshes and free from dense forest, with routes frequently shifting over centuries to accommodate changing conditions underfoot.

Lackford Lakes Nature Reserve
Lackford Lakes Nature Reserve
A hut in West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village
A hut in West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village

Shortly after leaving the forest, the path comes to Wordwell, one of Breckland's lost villages. All that remains of the medieval settlement is the tiny church of All Saints, standing lonely against the sky. Built in the early 12th century and much restored in the 19th century, it retains medieval features including remarkable Norman north and south doorways with carved stone tympana. Inside, the chancel arch and font are also Norman, while wooden benches with beautiful poppyhead ends and animal carvings date from the 15th century (All Saints is now maintained by the Redundant Churches Fund).

From Wordwell, the path descends gently towards Culford, passing a tree-topped tumulus engagingly called "the Hill of Health". Culford is best known for its hall, now a school. Originally built in Tudor times by Sir Nicholas Bacon (stepbrother of the famous Francis), it was remodelled in the early 1800s for the 1st Marquess Cornwallis. Behind the hall, the church — rebuilt in 1856 — contains Bacon and Cornwallis memorials.

An attractive feature of the tree-studded park, apart from grazing flocks of sheep, is a long, narrow lake with a beautiful display of water lilies at its western end.

The way into West Stow village passes the church of St Mary, flint-faced like so many Breckland buildings. Although much restored in Victorian times, original elements remain, including the tracery of the north windows, fragments of medieval glass in the west window, and an 11th-century door (the oldest part of the building).

West Stow itself is a neat village with cottages and gardens arranged tidily behind sturdy flint walls. Standing well back from the village street on the northern side is a handsome red-brick gatehouse with octagonal corner turrets; dating from the reign of King Henry VIII, the gatehouse is almost all that survives of the original Tudor hall.

All Saints Church, Wordwell
All Saints Church, Wordwell
Culford School
Culford School

Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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