Along Hadrian's Wall, Roman forts housed defending garrisons. The great fort of Housesteads (Borcovicium) is grandly situated on the vast rocky ridge known as Great Whin Sill and is probably the best known. The site, covering 5 acres (2 hectares), has been well excavated and contains the remains of barracks, the Commanding Officer's house, granaries, latrines, and the only remains of a Roman hospital in Britain.
The Great Whin Sill is one of the best-known geological features of northern England, extending from the north Northumberland coast to the south-west of the county. 'Whin' is a local term for basalt or dolerite rock, and the Whin Sill is particularly dramatic along the central section of Hadrian's Wall.
The ascent of Sewingshields Crags leads on to the triangulation point — one of the highest points of the Whin Sill at 1,066 feet (325 metres) above sea level — which is well worth reaching as views of the wall stretching in either direction and Broomlee Lough below are superb.
Over the wall from King's Wicket the northern horizon is dominated by large tracts of coniferous forest planted by the Forestry Commission. In summer, pastures are a mass of buttercups, thistles, and grasses grazed by hardy sheep and cattle, with the air full of birdsong (meadow pipit, skylark, curlew, lapwing, rook, and jackdaw). The beautiful curlew, with its haunting cry, is the symbol of Northumberland National Park, where there is a feeling of great space with distant horizons and a huge sky arching overhead.
The path heads west near the south side of Broomlee Lough and passes a disused limekiln built on a limestone outcrop. During the early 19th century, limestone was quarried nearby and alternative layers of coal and limestone fed into kilns from above, with quicklime drawn out from below to spread on pastures and improve grazing quality.
Approaching Hotbank Farm there are excellent views of Crag Lough, which (like all lakes in this area) was carved out by glaciers scouring softer rocks, with rich vegetation making it important for waterfowl and other birds. Hotbank Farm is a typical Northumbrian hill farm with sturdy stone buildings grouped around a yard and steeply pitched slate roofs to allow winter snow to slide off easily.
From the top of Hotbank Crags there is a small plantation of Scots pine, Sitka spruce, oak, ash, birch, and beech established as shelter belts for hill pastures and farms. On a clear day views stretch to the Lake District mountains to the south-west, the Pennines to the south, and the Cheviots to the north-east, and it is the only place on the wall where the three waters of Crag Lough, Greenlee Lough, and Broomlee Lough are all visible.
From here the path follows the wall along the airy crest of the Whin Sill to the fine viewpoint of Cuddy's Crags, passing Housesteads Crags and a shady wood before returning to Housesteads Fort.
Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.
