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Harrogate Royal Pump Room, Valley Gardens and Birk Crag

Around the Buildings and Public Gardens of a Northern Spa Town

In the 16th century, Harrogate was a tiny hamlet. In 1571, William Slingsby (a gentleman from nearby Knaresborough) was walking over the common at Harrogate when he noticed a spring bubbling out of a rock crevice that looked and tasted similar to medicinal waters he had taken at Spa in Belgium — a chalybeate spring rich in iron. It became known as the 'Tewit Well' after the 'tewits' (flocks of lapwings) gathering to peck at encrusted minerals. Another mineral spring, the 'Old Sulphur Spring', was discovered soon afterwards; covered over in Victorian times, it is now the Royal Pump Room Museum, the starting point for this walk, where the well remains on view (though now capped off for health and safety rather than sampled for its powerful 'rotten egg' taste).

Start Point
Royal Pump Room
Grid Ref: SE 29820 55383
Total Distance
3.5 miles (5.6 km)
Total Climbing
114 metres
Estimated Time
2 hours
Difficulty Grade
Easy

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring Leeds, Harrogate, Wetherby and Pontefract:

The Walk Report

All sorts of remarkable cures were attributed to the mineral waters, and by 1700 Harrogate was well established as a spa town where bathing in heated sulphur water became fashionable. The Old Sulphur Well remained popular despite its terrible smell — traveller Celia Fiennes described it in her 1697 journal as “being so very strong and offensive that I could not force my horse near”.

Cottages, lodgings, bathing houses, and inns were sited near the Old Sulphur Well, including The Crown (converted from a yeoman's house into an inn around 1700). In 1835 the owner Joseph Thackwray caused a scandal when accused of attempting to steal the sulphur spring; a plaque in Crown Place records the site of the shop where the well was dug to divert the spring. Controversy and legal action led to the 'Harrogate Improvement Bill' and the construction of the Royal Pump Room — a splendid octagonal building in classical style.

Just across the road are the Valley Gardens, where more than 30 of Harrogate's 90 springs emerge alongside an ordered flower-display stream (hard to imagine this was once a wild and boggy common).

Royal Pump Room Museum
Royal Pump Room Museum
Valley Gardens
Valley Gardens

Harrogate sits over a geological fault where superheated steam from deep within the earth forces its way up under great pressure, absorbing rock minerals and condensing near the surface. The 'Magnesium Well Pump Room' was built 16 years after the Royal Pump Room in Gothic style, marking the creation of the Valley Gardens completed for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887 (water was pumped to the Royal Bath Hospital to treat rheumatic patients).

Specimen trees in the Valley Gardens merge into woodland leading to 'Harlow Carr Botanical Gardens' (one of the RHS showpiece experimental and ornamental estates). From Birkreg Crag — a millstone grit outcrop 150 feet above Oak Beck — there are fine views before returning via woodland and Valley Gardens to the start.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

Birk Crag
Birk Crag
Field above Oak Beck
Field above Oak Beck
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