Mallerstang: Aisgill, Outhgill and Pendragon Castle

Aisgill Moor Cottages (just inside Cumbria) were originally built to house track maintenance staff of the Midland Railway. From here the walk climbs alongside Hellgill Beck (source of the River Eden) through a deep gorge whose sides are worn concave by winter torrents, leading to the Highway — a flat grass road along the hillside originally a Roman road used by Lady Anne Clifford in the 1660s traveling between her various castles.

On the climb to the Highway, take a short detour to Hellgill Force (a stunning waterfall cutting into rock strata with a clear drop pool at the base). The Highway is flanked by limestone outcrops and numerous shake holes and potholes, opening out to views down the full length of Mallerstang. Around here you arrive at the 'Water Cut', a stone sculpture designed by Mary Bourne and installed by local farmers as part of the Eden Benchmarks project.

Descending from the Highway involves a long slope (rough and steep in parts with four streams to ford after heavy rain), followed by a short woodland walk to Mallerstang Church (restored by Lady Anne Clifford in 1663, featuring her coat of arms and bread distribution shelves from the 18th century). To the north is the valley's only village, Outhgill, home to pretty houses including the former residence of the blacksmith father of scientist Michael Faraday. A field path further up leads to a hidden waterfall in a grotto below Castlethwaite Farm.

The turning point of the walk is Pendragon Castle, a picturesque ruin surrounded by a deep dry moat. Supposedly the home of Uther Pendragon (father of King Arthur), the existing building is 12th-century and was the seat of Lords of the Manor, notably Hugh de Morville (one of the knights who murdered Thomas Becket). Restored by Lady Anne Clifford in 1660, access is permitted through a roadside gate.

The return features a gentle stroll along the foot of fells on the west bank of the river, past Shoregill (converted holiday homes), returning to Mallerstang Farm and climbing the fellside alongside the railway for splendid valley views before dropping to Ings Heads. After visiting Hanging Lund waterfall (if weather permits) you reach Aisgill Viaduct — an elegant structure spanning a deep cleft where three gills pour — before a delightful stroll back to Aisgill Moor Cottages.

Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.