Kerrera, Gylen Castle, Barnabuck and Balliemore

Probably because of its close proximity to the tourist trap of Oban, few visitors bother to make the short ferry crossing to savor the peace, quiet, and history of this beautiful island. The small ferry crosses the Sound of Kerrera at frequent intervals, making planning easy. Arriving on Kerrera, you land at the grandly named Port Kerrera — basically a couple of houses, a church, and a lone red telephone box.

Climb the hill and turn left just below the Ferry House to tour the southern and most interesting part of the island. Soon you reach wide Horseshoe Bay and the Dail Righ (the King's Field), where Alexander II of Scotland died during a royal visit in 1249 while endeavoring to assert his rights as King when this part of Scotland regarded Norway as its mother country.

Further south, a subsidiary track leads to Gylen Castle. Perched high on cliffs overlooking Castle Bay and the open sea, this ancient tower was built in 1352 by the MacDougalls of Dunollie and ransacked in 1647 by troops under Campbell of Bragleen, who stole the priceless 'Brooch of Lorn' (taken centuries earlier in 1306 from Robert the Bruce during the Battle of Dalrigh).

The remains of Gylen Castle offer magnificent seaward views extending from the mountains of Mull to smaller islands in the Firth of Lorne like Seil, Scarba, and the Garvellachs (beloved by Saint Columba).

Beyond Gylen Castle, an ancient drove road takes you north and east around the island past Torbhain Mor, through the old settlement of Barnabuck, and back over the rugged spine of the island to Balliemore, Port Kerrera, and the ferry. Formerly used for landing huge herds of cattle from Mull on their way to southern trysts, this fine 'green road' offers wonderful views across to Lismore, Mull, the Garvellachs, and the hills of Morvern.

Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.