Dirleton and North Berwick

The road winds through fields past Scots pine and hedges of sea buckthorn. Out to sea, far to the east, is Bass Rock (a bird sanctuary with its blue and grey lighthouse on the horizon). Closer to land are the islands of Fidra, Lamb, and Craigleith — just a few of the many Islands of the Forth.

In season, blazing yellow gorse fringes the road to the Yellowcraig Nature Trail through the plantation. A lot of work has been done to remove WWII fortifications and preserve the land against the sea via dune restoration (using brushwood fences, sea lyme grass, marram grass, and sea buckthorn to trap blown sand). Beyond lies flat yellow sand and Fidra island with its grey rocks and horseshoe shape, where ruins of a monastery, cemetery, and plague hospital stand. Fidra is also said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write Treasure Island.

Along the beach remain timber posts once used for salmon netting, backed by a true links golf course. North Berwick harbour with its rusty red stone buildings, lobster pots, and bobbing boats is picturesque, overlooked by the ruins of St Andrew's Kirk (the original parish church abandoned as the sea eroded its foundations).

After a stroll through the town, the most challenging feature approaches: a steep climb of 150 metres to the top of North Berwick Law. Near the summit are ruined stone lookouts from the Napoleonic Wars and WWI, and a large weather-beaten whalebone arch on top. Spectacular views extend toward Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock before returning to Dirleton (with bus services available if needed).

Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.