Advertisement

Tibbie Shiels Inn and St Mary's Loch

Around a Loch Steeped in the Tumultuous History of the Borders

In the heart of the Borderland's great Ettrick Forest lies the 'valley of the silent loch', an inspiration to Wordsworth, Burns, Scott, and Hogg, and a refuge for the hunted men of the Covenant. Here, the hills hold memories of brave Borderers who still haunt the rugged glens and cleuchs beyond the lonely shores of St Mary's Loch.

Start Point
Tibbie Shiels Inn
Grid Ref: NT 24058 20515
Total Distance
8.3 miles (13.4 km)
Total Climbing
229 metres
Estimated Time
3–4 hours
Difficulty Grade
Moderate

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring Moffat and St Mary’s Loch:

The Walk Report

The walk begins from Tibbie Shiels Inn. Nearby stands the monument to James Hogg, whose benign face gazes south across Loch of the Lowes. The route continues north alongside the quiet A708, reaching Cappercleuch with its church nestling beside Megget Water.

Further on you arrive beside St Mary's Kirkyard (containing tombs of local families and Covenanters, alongside Binram's unhallowed mound). Passing a resident colony of black-headed gulls, a path leads up to Dryhope Tower (a 16th-century tower house with 4-foot-thick walls, former home of border reiver Walter Scott of Harden and his wife Mary, 'The Flower of Yarrow').

Tibbie Shiels Inn
Tibbie Shiels Inn
View from Tibbie Shiels
View from Tibbie Shiels
Southern Uplands near St Mary's Loch
Southern Uplands near St Mary's Loch
Loch of the Lowes
Loch of the Lowes

Crossing a footbridge over Yarrow Water, the path follows the loch contours past Bowerhope Farmhouse (once part of the vast royal Ettrick Forest). Continuing along the hillside — a route allegedly walked by Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 — you pass through March Wood, a tiny oasis of Scots pine.

The walk concludes back at the Tibbie Shiels Inn, named after landlady Tibbie Shiel, who famously remarked of regular customer James Hogg: "He was a gey sensible man for a' the nonsense he wrat."


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

Advertisement

Join The Walking Englishman Community

Connect with other walkers, share trail photos, and keep up to date with my latest route notes.