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Burley, Castle Hill, Vales Moor, Long Pond and Shappen Hill

Through the Forest to a Fine Hill Fort with Magnificent Views

Smuggling was a flourishing industry in the New Forest until the end of the Victorian era, centered around the village of Burley. This walk follows a smuggler's track to the finest of all New Forest hill forts with beautiful views over the Avon Valley. Continuing in the steps of smugglers, the walk follows their sunken tracks along the top of a long moorland ridge to return past the site of a battle with a dragon.

Start Point
Burley
Grid Ref: SU 21285 02911
Total Distance
5.8 miles (9.3 km)
Total Climbing
169 metres
Estimated Time
3 hours
Difficulty Grade
Moderate

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring the New Forest, Southampton, Ringwood and Lymington:

The Walk Report

The walk starts just outside Burley, a village dating back to the Iron Age whose name means 'a fortified place in the clearing', referring to the fine hill fort dominating the nearby ridge. Burley clusters around its manor, which survived William the Conqueror's 1079 forest annexation. Historically remote, the village depended on pig herding and notorious smuggling rings (with smugglers storing contraband beneath movable hearths in pubs like The Queen's Head and using sunken tracks to move goods unobserved from coast spots like Highcliffe or Barton).

Following the track along the ridge, the walk reaches Burley Iron Age Fort, offering splendid views over rolling moors to the Avon Valley and Christchurch Priory. Smugglers used a sunken track nearby, led by the Warne family from Knaves Ash (where Lovey Warne would watch for customs men wearing a conspicuous red cloak on Verely Hill).

Burley village centre
Burley village centre
The view from Castle Hill Fort
The view from Castle Hill Fort
Smuggler's Road on Vales Moor
Smuggler's Road on Vales Moor
Long Pond near Burley
Long Pond near Burley

The route also passes Burley Beacon, associated with forest legends of the Bisterne Dragon vanquished by Sir Morris Barkley. Wildlife on the walk includes herds of deer, ground-nesting birds on the heathlands, and wetland plants around Long Pond and Whitten Pond.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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