Advertisement

Taff's Well and Garth Mountain

From a Thermal Spring, an Energetic Walk Up a Hill Overlooking the Taff Gorge

Cwm Taf, or Taff Vale, was once an industrial area where the presence of iron ore and coal led to the establishment of iron furnaces beside the River Taff in the 16th century. Brickmaking and stone quarrying were also, at one time, undertaken in this area. Today, the scene is more peaceful, and this walk leads through woods and farmland and along a spectacular ridge to provide extensive views of the surrounding countryside.

Start Point
Taff's Well
Grid Ref: ST 11988 83723
Total Distance
4.1 miles (6.6 km)
Total Climbing
337 metres
Estimated Time
2 hours
Difficulty Grade
Moderate

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring Cardiff and Bridgend:

The Walk Report

Taff's Well was once famous for the cure of many diseases, rheumatism in particular. In a field adjoining the river, a warm spring bubbled to the surface, and the Taff's Well Thermal Spring bathhouse was constructed around it. Ailing and decrepit persons used to come here from far and wide to queue up for a turn to bathe in the hope that they might find a cure for their particular problems. It was said to be the smallest spa in the world, and the water was similar to the more famous springs at Bath — both certainly had the same green colour, but while the water of Bath is hot, that found at Taff's Well is merely tepid, being a constant 67 degrees Fahrenheit (19.4 degrees C). It once attracted visitors from far and wide, but is now sadly dilapidated and forgotten.

The rounded eminence of Garth Hill, or Garth Mountain as it is popularly known, can be seen from far away, and its distinctive summit is made even more prominent by the three prehistoric cairns that crown it. The summit mound was once used as a beacon site. A beacon lit here would be answered by others lit on Penarth Head and Cefn Onn, near Cardiff, to warn people of impending danger at a time when Britain was under threat of invasion.

Christopher Monger, a native of Taff's Well, wrote the novel 'The Englishman Who Went up a Hill But Came down a Mountain'. The location of the fictional Ffynnon Garw above the writer's home village suggests that it is Garth Mountain, and the mound on which the trigonometrical point stands is a Bronze Age burial mound. Monger adapted the story for the 1995 film of the same title, on which he was the director. The popularity of the film has resulted in a stream of visitors climbing to the summit of Garth Mountain to view the location. (Source: Wikipedia)

Taff's Well Thermal Spring
Taff's Well Thermal Spring
Taff's Well Quarry
Taff's Well Quarry
The view to Taff's Well from Garth Hill
The view to Taff's Well from Garth Hill
River Taff near Taff's Well
River Taff near Taff's Well

The Taff Gorge has been created by the waters of the River Taff cutting their way through a ridge of hard rock, leaving almost vertical cliffs from which stone has been quarried. For centuries, this valley was a vital source of communication, and at one time, two roads, two railways, and a canal ran through it.

On the other side of the valley, looking in the direction of Cardiff, can be seen the towers of Castell Coch (Red Castle). This is a sham castle built by the 3rd Marquess of Bute in 1875. It is built in a style similar to that of a Rhine castle. It does, however, stand on the site of a Norman fortress built between 1260 and 1300 by the Marcher Lord Gilbert de Clare to guard the Taff Gorge.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

Advertisement

Join The Walking Englishman Community

Connect with other walkers, share trail photos, and keep up to date with my latest route notes.