Ullock Pike, Long Side, Carl Side, Skiddaw, Little Man and Lonscale Fell
An adventurous ridge approach to Skiddaw, the 4th highest mountain in England, which dominates the northern Lake District landscape. This linear route takes in six of Alfred Wainwright's famed Lakeland fells.
Summary: Skiddaw is the fourth-highest mountain in England and dominates the northern Lake District landscape. Rather than taking the standard, well-made Victorian tourist path from Latrigg via Jenkin Hill, this dramatic linear route approaches Skiddaw from the north-west via the magnificent ridges of Ullock Pike, Long Side, and Carl Side, before continuing over Skiddaw Little Man and Lonscale Fell.
The Walk Report
Lil and I were staying at the Skiddaw Hotel in Keswick on their Daffodil Break deal, making an expedition onto Skiddaw entirely appropriate. Skiddaw is formed from a particular type of slate appropriately called Skiddaw Slate. There was no way I was going to do the popular route designed by early Victorian pioneers—the wide, well-made path all the way up from Latrigg via Jenkin Hill. Much too boring and much too busy for me! I wanted something more dramatic and a quieter approach.
Fortunately, with Lil as my taxi driver, I chose to be dropped off at the Ravenstone Hotel on the A591 between Keswick and Bothel.
Beginning the climb from Dyke NookThe demanding approach to Ullock Pike
Once dropped off, I followed a track through a gate adjacent to the hotel driveway and immediately confronted a steep start skirting the east of Dyke Nook plantation. It woke me up instantly! Pushing up the incline, I reached a gate opening onto the open fell after gaining 80 metres. Pausing to catch my breath, I watched the clouds rising, promising a great day ahead.
Following the Allerdale Ramble route toward Ling How, I climbed another 150 metres over 500 metres of distance. Exhausted but driven on by the rewards, I caught my first magnificent sight of Ullock Pike.
The ridge approach to Skiddaw from Ullock PikeView to Skiddaw from Longside Edge
Ullock Pike appeared as a majestic rounded dome along my ridge approach as swirling cloud lifted rapidly. Climbing another 300 metres over the next kilometre, I reached Ullock Pike and took a well-earned rest. I had bagged my first Wainwright fell of six, covering a quarter of the distance while completing more than half the total ascent.
The next mile along the ridge over Long Side and Carl Side was much easier, gaining only 60 metres. I bounded along in high spirits before preparing for the final haul up Skiddaw.
Carl Side straight aheadTake a breath, steep climb coming up
From Carl Side, the final ascent of Skiddaw is devoid of grass—a grey-black mound of weak slate that crumbles and slides underfoot. Struggling upward alongside other hikers, the cartoon-character efforts to retain balance provided comic relief and lightened the pain of the climb. Passing families and grumbling teenagers, we pushed through patches of lingering winter snow until the summit plateau came into view.
Huff, Puff all the way upLooking back from Skiddaw to Carl Side
Though warm on the lower ridge, Skiddaw's summit plateau was cold and breezy, with snow patches still clinging to the rocks. I found sheltered refuge in the cairn circle to eat a sandwich and chat with a couple from Eastbourne before heading off toward Little Man.
Walking off Skiddaw, I noticed a steady stream of people ascending from the south—reinforcing my conviction that approaching via the northern ridges was vastly superior to the busy tourist highway.
The top plateau of SkiddawLittle Man as seen from Skiddaw trig point
Skiddaw Little ManThe ridge route I had taken to Skiddaw
After a roller-coaster dip and rise over Little Man, I crossed Jenkin Hill toward Lonscale Fell, my sixth and final Wainwright of the day. As I reached the small summit cairn, I spotted two familiar figures approaching: "I bet you think we're stalking you!" laughed the couple from Eastbourne when they reached me.
Leaving Lonscale Fell, I descended toward Latrigg with lovely views of Keswick and Derwent Water. Arriving at the car park, Lil was waiting in the car just as a military aircraft flew past on a low-level crossing of Skiddaw—a fitting, celebratory flypast to conclude a wonderful linear mountain journey.
Skiddaw SlateThe cairn on Lonscale Fell
View to Blencathra from Lonscale FellThe White Beck gully