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Ilkley and Ilkley Moor

A Walk Across Open Moor with Breathtaking Views on the Edge of a Famous Yorkshire Town

Ilkley Moor is a nationally famous area of open moorland, its fame in part due to the Victorian popular song 'On Ilkla Moor Baht 'at' — sometimes described as Yorkshire's national anthem. The history of Ilkley goes back to Iron Age times, when it was a riverside settlement by a ford (Llecan) where the Romans built a camp (Olicana) to guard their road crossing of the River Wharfe, downstream from the present 17th-century packhorse bridge where the walk starts.

Remains of Olicana Camp can be seen behind Ilkley's medieval church, which houses three magnificent carved Anglo-Saxon gravestone crosses inside the tower. The Tudor Manor House nearby contains many Roman archaeological finds, and from the late 18th century onwards Ilkley enjoyed fame as a spa town.

Start Point
Ilkley Bridge
Grid Ref: SE 11711 47979
Total Distance
5.3 miles (8.5 km)
Total Climbing
296 metres
Estimated Time
3 hours
Difficulty Grade
Moderate

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

Essential paper map for exploring Lower Wharfedale and Washburn Valley:

The Walk Report

Ilkley College was originally built in 1865 as Wells House Hydropathic Hotel; this architecturally outstanding building and park now houses the Ilkley Campus of Bradford and Ilkley Community College.

Further on the route is the narrow wooded valley of Heber's Ghyll (see my walk) with ornamental paths and bridges landscaped in typical late Victorian style. Taking its name from an old Ilkley family (the Hebers of nearby Hollin Hall), the ghyll is noted for its ferns, oak and birch woods, and a series of waterfalls.

On the moor itself is the Swastika Stone. The mysterious carving on this moorland boulder is in fact a "fylfot" — an ancient Indo-European symbol of eternal life. The carving has a modern replica alongside it, while the original, protected within iron railings, probably dates from some 2,500 to 3,000 years ago.

Ilkley Moor is particularly rich in archaeological remains, including literally scores of mysterious cup-and-ring-marked stones and ancient stone circles. Furthermore, its northern edge provides a marvellous viewpoint across and into the centre of Wharfedale and the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

All Saints Parish Church, Ilkley
All Saints Parish Church, Ilkley
Swastika Stone on Ilkley Moor
Swastika Stone on Ilkley Moor

Further east along the moor edge is White Wells, built as a small bathhouse in the 1760s by Squire Middleton of Ilkley. Situated over Ilkley Moor's most famous spring, it only took a few years before wealthy, gouty invalids were coming from all over England to be carried by donkey from their Ilkley lodgings to be plunged into the clear, icy waters. The wells have been beautifully restored and are open to the public, complemented by a small museum and tea rooms.

Below White Wells are the Tarns, landscaped from moorland pools to enhance their picturesque effect. Much of the traditional moorland heather and bilberry — richly purple in late summer — had been lost through overgrazing and trampling, but in recent years steps have been taken to restore the colourful display to its natural peak.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

View from Ilkley Moor to Wharfedale
View from Ilkley Moor to Wharfedale
Outcrop and fern near White Wells
Outcrop and fern near White Wells
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