Dirleton and North Berwick

From an ancient castle, along the beach to an abandoned church and an historic town
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Statistics and Files
Start: Dirleton Distance: 7.9 miles (12.6 km) Climbing: 206 metres
Grid Ref: NT 51448 83873 Time: 3-4 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File About North Berwick
Statistics
Start: Dirleton Distance: 7.9 miles (12.6 km)
Climbing: 206 metres Grid Ref: NT 51448 83873
Time: 3-4 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: Historic Dirleton Castle dates from the 13th century. With its gardens and beehive dovecote it is well worth a visit, as is the 16th century parish church across the green. The route to the coast is along an old 'ware road' once used by farmers for collecting seaweed (ware) in their carts to use as fertiliser.

Dirleton CastleDirleton Castle
View of Fidra from Yellowcraig beachView of Fidra from Yellowcraig beach

The road winds through the fields past Scots Pine and hedges of Sea Buckthorn. Out to sea, far to the east, is Bass Rock, a bird sanctuary with its blue and grey lighthouse on the horizon. Closer to land are the islands of Fidra, Lamb and Craigleith. Collectively these are just of a few of the many Islands of the Forth.

In season, blazing yellow gorse fringes the road to the Yellowcraig Nature Trail, which runs through the plantation for about one mile. The plants on the trail include greater knapweed, viper's bugloss, woody nightshade, marjoram, grass of parnassus and ragwort, the fairy-ring champignon (Scottish Bonnets) and wild thyme. On the south side of the plantation there is an adventure area. Trees include Corsican Pine, Beech and Scots Pine. On the north side many of the Scots Pines grow almost horizontally, bent by the force of the wind.

A lot of work has been done in the recent past to remove fortifications installed in the area during World War Two. Now the battle is to preserve the land against the sea. Dune restoration has been carried out with brushwood Dutch fences, sea lyme grass, marram grass and sea buckthorn, which trap the blown sand. Beyond is flat, yellow sand and the island of Fidra with its grey rocks. Thy island has a horseshoe shape, with a deep circular bay that almost cuts the island in half. This forms a hole you can see right through. On a cloudy day, seen from the correct angle, this can seem like a female figure, dressed in white. Hence it has earned the nickname, the 'white lady of Fidra'.

On the island are the ruins of a monastery and cemetery. Later, Fidra was used as a hospital in times of plague. Its chapel of Saint Nicholas was dedicated to the patron saint of sailors. Fidra is also said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson on one of his frequent visits to North Berwick to write Treasure Island.

North BerwickNorth Berwick
North Berwick LawNorth Berwick Law

Along the beach the remains of timber posts , once used for salmon netting, can be seen. Behind the dunes is a true links golf course - it was made out of the natural contours of the ground. Land birds to be seen include the kestrel, tawny owl, woodcock, goldfinch, linnet and wren. Sea birds include gulls, gannets, curlews, oystercatchers, terns, shags, eiders and plovers.

The variety of seaweeds is another interesting feature of the beach. In the pools and across the rocks nearest the high water mark the seaweeds are green. At the lower levels the colour of seaweed is brown, while at the lowest level of all it is a subtle red and pink. There are bright green sea ribbons, dark pop-weed (bladderwrack), red sea fern and carrageen moss in the rock pools.

North Berwick harbour, with its rusty red stone buildings, lobster pots and bobbing boats is a pretty picture. Overlooking the harbour are the ruins of St Andrew's Kirk, the original parish church and once a scene of witchcraft. It was later abandoned as the sea ate into the foundations. The gardens of North Berwick Lodge on Victoria Street are a delightful spot for a picnic.

After a stroll through the town the most challenging feature of the walk is approaching. A steep climb of 150 metres to the top of North Berwick Law. From the climb of the hill there are good views to Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock in the east.

Near the top of North Berwick Law is a ruined stone look-out post from the Napoleonic Wars and another from World War One. On the summit itself is a large weather beaten whalebone arch and a triangulation point. The views are spectacular here so take time out to enjoy them before returning to North Berwick for well earned refreshments. Bus services operate to get you back to the start at Dirleton should you need them.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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