Sydling St Nicholas, Large Bar Hill, Ridge Hill and Shearplace Hill

A historic village and a ridge-top walk in the Dorset Downs

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Statistics and Files
Start: Sydling St Nicholas Distance: 4.7 miles (7.6 km) Climbing: 209 metres
Grid Ref: SY 63018 99301 Time: 2 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File The Dorset Downs
Statistics
Start: Sydling St Nicholas Distance: 4.7 miles (7.6 km)
Climbing: 209 metres Grid Ref: SY 63018 99301
Time: 2 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: To the north of Dorchester, several chalk streams flowing southwards to meet up with the River Frome have carved deep valleys through the Dorset Downs. Some of these valleys contained seldom-visited villages that are packed with interest. Perhaps the most charming of these, Sydling St Nicholas, is the focus of this circular walk.

Sydling St Nicholas ChurchSydling St Nicholas Church
Large Bar HillLarge Bar Hill

The walk begins by the Church of Saint Nicholas on the west side of the village. The building dates from the 15th century and is in the elaborate late Perpendicular style, with a lofty tower decorated with some ferocious gargoyles. Inside there are some fine screens and monuments from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Beside the church is a Georgian manor house, Sydling Court, which incorporates part of the Tudor house once owned by the politician and diplomat Sir Francis Walsingham, who was principal secretary to Queen Elizabeth I from 1573 until his death in 1590.

The walk continues into the village past the base of an old stone cross, which marks the place where Sydling's anual fair has been held every December 6th since at least the Middle Ages.

Most of the cottages in the village are thatched and built of flint and Ham stone, a much-prized golden limestone quarried just over the Somerset border to the north-west. Often, the flint and stone are laid in alternate courses for decorative effect. Several brooks and rills run through the village, and cottages are connected to the roads and to one another by footbridges.

A long steady climb out of the village takes you up onto the downs, where you walk south along the ridge between Large Bar Barn and the site of an old covered reservoir to the north of Crete Hill. On this ridge-top section of the walk there are wonderful views west over the Sydling valley and south to the seaward-facing hills.

Pond Bottom and Shearplace HillPond Bottom and Shearplace Hill
The Greyhound Inn, Sydling St NicholasThe Greyhound Inn, Sydling St Nicholas

You walk down a banked green track into Pond Bottom, then climb again to where there are some low banks and enclosures, the remains of a large Celtic settlement. In the Dark Ages, these downlands were well populated and several settlements were scattered along the hilltops. The outlines of their small fields or lynchets can be seen on the surrounding hillsides.

This site, on a saddle of land between two swelling hills, provides another magnificent view over the valley. The route drops down into the valley and passes Huish Farm, with its handsome, lichen-crusted, brick boundary wall, before crossing Sydling Water. This little chalk stream is a favourite spawning ground for salmon swimming inland from Poole. Dabchicks dart around huge stands of reeds and flags, while kingfishers and nightingales haunt its banks.

The walk back to the churchyard at Sydling St Nicholas passes a huge tithe barn, whose fine timbers now support a corrugated-iron roof. If you have time at the end of the walk, it is well worth exploring this gem of a village further. Waterside Lane, that its evocative name suggests, is particularly picturesque. And, if you require refreshments at the end of the walk, the village hostelry, the Greyhound Inn, is most welcoming. There is food, drink, and the Greyhound also has rooms available if you wish to stay overnight in the village.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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