Pillar, Scoat Fell, Red Pike and Yewbarrow

There are sometimes unforgettable moments when a car drive around a corner to the start of a walk is just as potent a memory as the walk itself. The drive around the mound of High Birkhow near Wasdale Hall where Wast Water is reached is one such moment. Suddenly an inconsequential drive becomes something much more—a gobsmacking moment for any discerning walker. As Wast Water opens out in front of your eyes it reveals its glorious companions which include Scafell, the greatest of English mountains.

Further inspection also exposes Great Gable, Lingmell, Great End, and even Scafell Pike, the highest of them all. This place is an incredible feast for the walking enthusiast's eyes, and on reaching this spot my day was already satisfied before setting foot on the hill! Yet of all the heights in view, humble Yewbarrow on the northern edge of Wast Water was the final target of our epic Mosedale Horseshoe. I had done it once before in the company of my brother Dave. This time I was in party with my other walking pal Steve. Unlike the first time when I stayed on the ridge crest, this time I intended to visit the famous Pillar Rock. Here follows the story of our incredible walk.

We parked at Overbeck Bridge, immediately upsetting a couple who wanted plenty of space between their car and any other. You know the type: those who make ten spaces into nine by crossing the line. The eyes we got from them for our impudence of parking next to them in the only space available were devilish! Despite changing into our boots right beside them, no pleasantries were exchanged. No matter: I quickly forgot about them as we set off along the northern shore of Wast Water towards Wasdale Head.

It was about 10:00am and overcast, but completely still. There was not the faintest ripple on England's deepest lake, so I paused to capture the mirror reflections across the water. With both water and air silent, the quiet in the valley was eerie, broken only by our chatter, the gentle bubbling of Mosedale Beck, early birdsong, and the bleating of sheep and lambs. After passing the inn at Wasdale Head, our easy valley stroll ended and the climbing began, gently at first around the lower flanks of Kirk Fell.

The ascent around the western face of Kirk Fell soon steepened, particularly once our riverside path beside Mosedale Beck ended at Gatherstone Head. We were now committed to Black Sail Pass on the longest sustained climb of the day, crossing Gatherstone Beck during the relentless haul to the pass saddle.

Steve, who is the faster climber, pulled ahead while I paused to strip off layers and take photos. Deciding to take a slightly more direct line, I scrambled up Murl Rigg. It was steep and breathless work, but great fun, and eventually I pulled myself out onto the crest at Looking Stead.

Once on the crest of Black Sail Pass, I rejoined Steve and we walked together towards Looking Stead. We now had a choice: stay on the main ridge path or drop onto the ironically named High Level Route (ironic because what could be more high-level than the ridge itself?). We walked ahead trying to spot where the path peeled away, but I overshot it. My GPS confirmed we had passed the junction. Steve elected to stick to the ridge crest and proceed directly to Pillar summit, while I was determined not to miss Pillar Rock a second time.

I decided to descend straight down from the ridge towards the path I could see roughly 150 metres below. It was exceptionally steep, and on reflection I ought to have retraced my steps to the proper junction, but I was committed. While 95 percent of the descent was straightforward, the remaining five percent required sliding on my backside down a wet slab. Discomfort aside, I landed safely on the High Level Route and soon reached Robinson's Cairn.

The cairn commemorates John Wilson Robinson (died 1907) and was erected by over a hundred of his mountaineering friends and colleagues. It sits in a magnificent spot on the shoulder of Pillar, commanding vast views down into Ennerdale and across to the High Stile range.

Leaving Robinson's Cairn, the High Level Route rounded a rocky corner and suddenly presented my first close-up vista of Pillar Rock. It was a staggering sight: the monolithic crag thrusts outwards dramatically from the northern precipice of the fell.

Between me and the rock lay a large open amphitheatre across which the path traverses. The route drops slightly before climbing over scree along the Shamrock Traverse. With the valley floor of Ennerdale dropping away hundreds of feet below, the sense of airy exposure was sensational, yet the path was always positive underfoot.

As I crossed the open section, I spotted a pair of climbers on Pillar Rock itself, appearing as tiny dots against the massive buttress. Staying on the walker's traverse, the path scrambled up rocky grooves and ledges around the southern base of the crag. After taking in a final view of the rock face, I made the steep final climb to rejoin the summit plateau. The final 30 metres was an energetic hands-on scramble.

My detour onto the High Level Route had taken some time, and Steve had naturally pressed ahead. After a quick bite to eat at the summit trig point of Pillar, I set off towards Little Scoat Fell, dropping to Wind Gap and passing Black Crag and Mirk Cove. The knife-edge ridge of Steeple looked magnificent jutting out into Ennerdale, but with miles still to cover, I banked that detour for another day.

The afternoon weather had improved considerably, with broken cloud and virtually no wind. The crossing from Scoat Fell towards Red Pike along the high watershed was sublime walking.

As I roved along the ridge, I gazed down to my right at Scoat Tarn nestled in its rocky bowl, with Low Tarn visible beyond. Straight ahead rose the rocky prow of Yewbarrow. On my previous visit with Dave, I had tackled Yewbarrow while he bypassed it below. Having expended extra energy scrambling around Pillar Rock, I weighed up whether to commit to the stiff climb up Stirrup Crag or follow the valley path.

During a final break at Dore Head, discretion won out: with four more strenuous walking days ahead on our trip, I chose the low traverse beside Over Beck. (Note: the official route map and GPX data include the full traverse over Yewbarrow, which remains the recommended route for those with fresh legs!).

The descent alongside Over Beck still provided spectacular scenes, particularly looking back towards Scafell emerging from behind Lingmell, and the great vista over Wast Water from Dropping Crag. A final steep descent brought me back to Overbeck Bridge, where I found Steve relaxing on the grass verge. A truly memorable day out: the Mosedale Horseshoe remains one of Lakeland's grandest undertakings!