Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and Esk Pike

Great Langdale was one of the last areas I discovered in the Lake District, which is ironic given that it is arguably the most popular walking valley in the entire National Park. Living on the east side of the Pennines had led me to view the Lakeland heights with a sense of foreboding; my earliest visits were self-imposed challenges spent conquering fears on the steepest mountains—Scafell, Helvellyn, and Blencathra—via their rockiest accesses such as Lord's Rake, Striding Edge, and Sharp Edge.

However, a few years ago a group of us visited Langdale for the first time to climb Stickle Ghyll to Pavey Ark via Jack's Rake. I have been completely smitten with walking in Great Langdale ever since. Further study of the area focused my attention on the jagged, undulating ridge at the western head of the valley: the roller-coaster crest of Crinkle Crags. Planning a five-day break in the Lakes, the first route I charted was Crinkle Crags paired with an ascent of Bowfell, another Lakeland giant I had yet to climb. Seasoned fellwalker Paul Buttle listed this exact circuit among the twelve best walks in Lakeland, so Steve and I knew we were in for a superlative day out.

This was the second day of our trip and the weather was set fair. Cloud cover was widespread but sat comfortably above 1,000 metres, keeping the high summits in crystal-clear view. Steve and I share the view that fellwalking in zero visibility is rather pointless, so having clear tops meant we could look forward to expansive panoramas all day.

We parked in the National Trust car park near the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, where Steve happily saved the parking fee with his NT membership. We set off westwards out of Langdale into quiet Oxendale. Passing Stool End Farm, the last homestead in the valley, we crossed a wooden footbridge over Oxendale Beck and began the serious climbing.

Like many walkers, we prefer getting the bulk of the day's ascent completed early on. We climbed steadily past Brown Howe, paused near the fork by Red Tarn, and pressed on toward Great Knott. A key highlight of the early climb was viewing the impressive cascade of Whorneyside Force in Hell Gill. The climb gained us over 500 metres of elevation in under two miles. Beyond Great Knott—which can easily be mistaken for the first crinkle—the gradient eased as we reached the 700-metre contour and approached the start of the Crinkle Crags traverse.

There are multiple ways to negotiate Crinkle Crags. As Alfred Wainwright noted: "The traverse of the ridge being amongst the grandest mountain walks in Lakeland and strenuous effort will be recompensed by superlative views. Timid walkers will be less happy and may find the mountain hostile but should attempt it: other mountains are climbed and forgotten but Crinkle Crags will always be remembered."

The terrain can be as challenging or straightforward as you choose. Multiple paths weave across the ridge: at each crinkle, some tracks bypass the rock while others go directly over the rocky crests. Wainwright observed that the measure of enjoyment depends entirely on the individual. Steve and I divided naturally: I took the high line directly over each crinkle, while Steve preferred the skirting paths lower down. Hands-on scrambling was only required on one occasion—the famous 'Bad Step' on Long Top (the second crinkle)—while Steve had a smooth bypass. Taken at your own comfort level, the crinkles are thoroughly enjoyable.

The sheer pleasure of walking among these rocky turrets is undeniable. The vantage point is exceptional: two miles to the north-west rise Scafell and Scafell Pike; two miles to the north-east stand the distinctive Langdale Pikes; and three miles south are the Coniston Fells. It is one of the premier spots in Cumbria for mountain-spotting.

Tucked between the crags are grassy recesses and sheltered hollows that make perfect lunch stops. Had I explored this ridge in my youth, I would have spent hours scrambling every nook and cranny. For today, however, we said a reluctant farewell to the Crinkles and set our sights on Bowfell.

Leaving the final crinkle behind, we descended north to Three Tarns, nestled in the depression linking Crinkle Crags to Bowfell. This is an ideal place to take a breather before tackling the stiff 200-metre climb up Bowfell's rocky cone.

During the ascent, I paused to admire the remarkable geology of the Great Slab—an enormous, smooth tilt of rock angled at thirty degrees on the mountain's flank. Beyond it, we picked our way across the summit boulder field, which resembles the rocky summit plateau of Scafell Pike. The wind was cool at the top cairn, so we settled into a sheltered hollow for food and hot drink, briefly interrupted to take a group photograph for six fellow walkers who arrived just after us.

Refuelled, we headed north-west from Bowfell down to Ore Gap, the col separating Bowfell from Esk Pike. A short walk beyond lies Esk Hause, a crossroads where Steve and I have frequently navigated through thick mountain fog.

On this clear day, navigation was effortless. We made the short climb up to conquer the stony summit of Esk Pike before returning to Ore Gap and beginning our descent toward Angle Tarn. The path down the col was damp and intermittent in places, but Angle Tarn sparkled invitingly below in its deep amphitheatre.

We reached Angle Tarn and stopped briefly by the water's edge before following the path on an easy contour around Hanging Knotts and Rossett Pike to reach the top of Rossett Gill.

The historic packhorse route down Rossett Gill connecting Wasdale and Langdale is famously described with dread by Wainwright. While the descent on pitched stones demands careful footwork on tired knees, the compensation is magnificent: the views looking straight down into the flat valley of Mickleden, framed by the precipitous dome of Pike of Stickle, are second to none.

Reaching the valley floor, the final leg was pure relaxation. After the steep rock of Rossett Gill, Steve and I enjoyed two miles of level walking through Mickleden back toward Great Langdale.

The track follows the gentle meanders of Mickleden Beck. As the late afternoon sun lit the fells, we had Gimmer Crag and Pike of Stickle towering on our left, with The Band, Earing Crag, and the distant skyline of Crinkle Crags rising on our right.

It had been an exceptional outing, and our legs were feeling the seven hours on the hill as we reached the Old Hotel. Looking back toward Oxendale, we traced the high ridges we had walked earlier that morning. Steve even pulled the car over on the drive out of Langdale to take one last photo of the Crinkle Crags skyline. A classic mountain day—we will certainly return, perhaps adding Pike of Blisco next time!