Holme Fell, Cathedral Cave, Black Fell and Tarn Hows

I subscribe to Cumbria magazine and found a gem of a walk described in the March 2013 edition. The summary described it as full of interest and suitable for families, so I read on and found it included two fascinating features: 'Great Hole' and 'Cathedral Cave'. Checking the map, I noticed two of Wainwright's lowest fells close by (the 212th and 213th highest of all 214 fells), and seeing that Tarn Hows was also nearby, I designed this circuit.

Arranging to meet my friend John Lister at Glen Mary Bridge National Trust car park for a 9:30 AM start on an early April morning, I arrived to find him already waiting.

John and I set off in ebullient mood on a crisp spring morning. Walking north on a path parallel to the A593 for 400 metres, we crossed the road to reach the southern edge of Yew Tree Tarn. Formed when the local landowner dammed Yewdale Beck in the 1930s, the tarn sits in delightful woodland beneath the rocky heights of the Furness Fells.

Skirted around the west side of the tarn, we began our first climb via Uskdale Gap toward Ivy Crag and Holme Fell, admiring interesting glacial erratics scattered along the path.

The climb through Uskdale Gap was a short, challenging ascent that got me huffing and puffing as I maintained a brisk pace in preparation for an upcoming Welsh coast-to-coast trek. Soon the snow-covered east flank of Wetherlam came into view, and we rushed the final yards to Holme Fell's summit.

The summit views were memorable. To the north, Lake District giants stood proud (Langdale Pikes, Helvellyn, Fairfield Horseshoe, High Street, and the Kentmere Fells). To the south, Wainwright's words held true: "Outstanding in a moderate view is the striking full length of Coniston Water; this is the best place for viewing the lake." Numerous other tarns and reservoirs were also visible below.

Descending north-west to Holme Ground, we joined a track toward Great Hole through woodland where Easter snow still lingered in sheltered patches.

Soon we reached the 'Great Hole' in Hodge Close Quarry—a massive, sheer-sided, unfenced excavation of light green slate about 100m deep. Popular with abseilers and divers, it was an awe-inspiring sight as we kept a safe distance from the unfenced edge.

Continuing through Moss Rigg Wood past smaller abandoned quarry sites, we reached Forc near Stang End. Near a wooden footbridge over the fledgling River Brathay, we took a short detour following a National Trust sign to Cathedral Cave.

Walking through the short tunnel into the dramatic cave, we admired the central sloped slate column and the striking 'hole to the sky' revealing passing white clouds and birch woodland. Near the central column lies a deep red pool requiring careful footing!

After taking lunch on a felled log near the cave, we retraced our steps to the footbridge and followed a path through Stang End onto the road past High Park to Hollin Bank. Passing Duke of Edinburgh award groups laden with heavy backpacks, we continued south toward Oxen Fell High Cross.

After a brief navigational detour near High Arnside, we headed toward Black Crag on Black Fell. The steady climb took us past low Arnside and through patches of remaining snow to the summit trig point.

Wainwright described Black Fell's view perfectly: "The lovely countryside around the head of Windermere is delightfully pictured, this being the best viewpoint for the sylvan charms of the area between Ambleside, Wray Castle and Hawkshead."

Descending via Iron Keld and Torver Intake brought us to the northern edge of Tarn Hows. Welcoming over half a million visitors yearly, Tarn Hows proved an absolute delight with accessible lakeside paths and woodland surroundings. Following Tom Gill down over cascades to Glen Mary Bridge concluded our 9-mile circuit. A true WOW walk!