Kirk Fell, Pillar, Scoat Fell, Steeple and Red Pike

Kirk Fell had been a niggling mountain for some time—the only Wainwright in the Scafell region I had not yet completed. As the final walk of three during a November 2013 walking break, I resolved to tackle it. How to do it? I had always looked at the path going straight up the centre of Kirk Fell from Wasdale Head when doing other walks in the area, thinking: "Why not? It will get me straight up to the high ground."

Beginning my walk from Wasdale Head, I passed the pub and went through the right-hand gate toward the south-facing slope of Kirk Fell. (The left-hand gate would have taken me through Mosedale on Black Sail Pass). Pausing at the gate, I looked up and set my mantra: "Fifty steps and a pause, fifty steps and another pause."

Executing my 50-step routine up the mountain, the pauses grew slightly longer as altitude increased. Each stop rewarded me with unfolding views: Lingmell Beck, the slopes of Great Gable and Lingmell, and the view looking back south to Wasdale Head and Wast Water.

Reaching a gentler incline at Highnose Head, I took a longer five-minute sit-down. Burnmoor Tarn came into view, prompting a mental note to walk there when climbing Illgill Head and Whin Rigg.

Continuing upward, I entered the cloud level around 600 metres, obscuring the Wasdale views. Checking my GPS after a series of exhausting hauls, I saw I had reached 700 metres—still 100 metres to go! Fortunately, the gradients eased across the top plateau of Kirk Fell until I reached the summit. Done!

It had taken 1.5 hours to climb 700 metres over 1.5 kilometres. Too cold to linger in the cloud, I followed my GPS track and a parallel line of iron fence posts toward Kirkfell Crags. A window in the cloud allowed me to study my descent.

The descent through Kirkfell Crags required immense concentration, using both hands and feet to navigate the steep, crumbly red rock gully. I slipped twice, wetting my gloves rather than my backside, before reaching Black Sail Pass and walking toward Looking Stead.

Below the 650-metre cloud line at Looking Stead, I caught glimpses into Ennerdale and looked back to see Kirk Fell's summit now completely clear of cloud—how I wished it had been like that an hour earlier!

Climbing from Looking Stead up through the rocky buttresses toward Pillar, fatigue set in heavily. Ascending in swirling cloud gave no warning of upcoming obstacles. Scrambling to Pillar's trig point, I sheltered briefly from the perishing cold, discovering I was completely alone on the mountain—a surprise for any Wainwright, even on a chilly November Thursday.

From Pillar, the path to Wind Gap and Scoat Fell was tricky and steep in full cloud. Following a drystone wall across Scoat Fell led me to Steeple, where thick mist meant I had to imagine Wainwright's words: "This is a thrilling spot. One's feet are on the ground but one's eyes see as from a cloud in the heavens."

Realizing it was nearly 2:00 PM with only two hours of daylight remaining, I replanned my route, omitting Haycock and Seatallan in favor of descending via Red Pike and Dore Head.

Descending past Red Pike below 800 metres, the sun broke through the cloud, lifting my spirits instantly. Bounding down to Dore Head, I admired the inspirational profile of Yewbarrow before opting for the longer, safer route around Yewbarrow's southern side toward Overbeck Bridge rather than tackling the steep Dore Head screes in fading light.

Walking through Over Beck Dale alone in the evocative evening light, I realized I had made the right decision to curtail the walk. The setting sun transformed Wasdale with a beautiful, surreal blanket of evening light across Wast Water. Reaching my car just as darkness fell, I enjoyed a final cup of soup, thoroughly satisfied with a challenging and fulfilling day.