King's Caple, Hoarwithy, Pengethley and Sellack

The Church of St John the Baptist in King's Caple is set on a hill above a bend in the Wye Valley. Its 14th-century tower and slender spire make it a familiar landmark, and there is a wonderful view from the churchyard. Opposite the church is Caple Tump, a wooded mound that was once the site of a Norman motte and bailey castle. Later it was used as a site for village fairs and festivities, a tradition which was revived by the local school in the late 20th century.

A gentle descent from the church along a quiet lane leads to the River Wye, and a crossing over Hoarwithy road bridge. Here there is a charming scene of gliding swans, noisy ducks, and occasionally a darting, flashing kingfisher among the reeds and willows. Fishermen try their luck at catching the Wye's famous salmon, and canoeists paddle their way swiftly downstream or battle against the current.

There has been a river crossing here since at least the 14th century, when "Hoarwithy Passage" had a ferry known as the "Horse Ferry", which transported passengers, goods, and livestock. In 1856, a timber toll bridge was built. This was replaced 20 years later by an iron structure, which lasted until 1990, when the present bridge was built. No toll has been payable since 1935, but the tall, slender tollhouse still remains.

Hoarwithy itself is a pretty village, with attractive houses and cottages dotted along steep wooded banks. Although the village lies within the parish of Hentland, the building of the bridge created a larger settlement and a splendid new church, St Catherine's, was built in the village in the 1880s.

The only church of its kind in this part of the world, a flight of stone steps ascends below overhanging evergreens to a campanile tower. A cloister walk leads to the entrance porch of an exceptional Italianate interior, which combines marble columns and mosaic floors with traditional English carved-wood choir stalls and stained-glass windows.

The man responsible for this remarkable building was the Reverend William Poole, vicar of Hentland and Hoarwithy from 1854 to 1901. He commissioned a London architect, John Pollard Seddon, to design it around a formerly plain chapel. Poole's influence can be seen in other buildings nearby, including the reading room beside the church.

The walk follows field paths, climbing above the village to a viewpoint over the Wye Valley, from which the churches of King's Caple, Hoarwithy, and Sellack are visible. The nearby farmhouse of Llanfrother was reputedly the site of a 6th-century monastic college founded by St Dubricius. As you pick up a surfaced road to Hentland, you pass Poole's school and vicarage, both now converted into houses. At the end of the lane is Hentland Church, dedicated to St Dubricius.

Surrounded by weathered tombs and ancient gnarled yews, this remote building is thought to be the earliest foundation in the area. There are some traces of 13th-century work; a square 14th-century tower and some fading 17th-century wall paintings. The interior was much restored by Seddon in the 1850s. Carpets of snowdrops make the churchyard most attractive in early spring.

The route follows a path marking the course of a minor road, Roman in origin, through Pengethley Park. This National Trust property has massive oaks and overgrown fishponds. Ahead is the Pengethley Manor Hotel, formerly a manor house. It was built in the 1820s to replace a Tudor mansion destroyed by a fire. Adjoining the hotel is Pengethley Garden Centre, offering refreshments.

A ridge-top bridleway takes you to Caradoc, an ancient camp associated with an ally of King Arthur. The Scudamore family built Caradoc Court, a mansion, here in 1620, with grand oak-panelled rooms and fine decorated plasterwork. Tragically, this was destroyed in a disastrous fire in 1986. Beside the charred ruins are rows of stables housing racehorses. Throughout the course of the walk, you are likely to meet strings of these handsome animals prancing along the lanes or at full stretch along the practice gallops.

Below Caradoc is the village of Sellack, whose church is the only one in England dedicated to St Tysilio. The Norman building enjoys an idyllic setting near the banks of the Wye. In the churchyard, gravestones cluster around a graceful churchyard cross. These used to be standard features in English medieval churches, but the great majority were destroyed in the Civil War and its aftermath.

The restored spire on the 14th-century tower is topped with a golden weathercock and inside the unusually shaped building is a Jacobean gallery and pulpit, complete with tester, and a handsome vaulted chapel dating from the 15th century. The church was much restored during the 19th century.

A walk across riverside meadows leads to Sellack suspension footbridge, built by public subscription in 1895. The site was once a ford and ferry crossing, and this is reflected in the name of the settlement on the other side, Sellack Boat.

The bridge is constructed of cast iron, steel, and concrete, and crosses the river in a single graceful span of 190 feet (57 metres), the longest span of any footbridge over the Wye. From its swaying deck, you can enjoy tranquil views of the river as it winds lazily around a loop called the Goose's Neck. Ahead, clearly visible on its hill, is the Church of St John the Baptist at King's Caple, marking the end of the walk.

Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.