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Cornish Coast Path
Part 4 - Portloe to Mawnan Smith

Day
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Itinerary
Kingsand to Looe
Looe to Fowey
Fowey to Portloe
Portloe to Mawnan Smith
Mawnan Smith to Coverack
Coverack to Mullion
Mullion to Penzance
Penzance to Land's End

Miles
16.3
11.9
26.7
14.0
11.8
16.2
20.0
15.3

      Required Ordnance Survey Maps:
      (Explorer Series 1:25,000)

  • 108 Lower Tamar Valley and Plymouth
  • 107 St Austell and Liskeard
  • 105 Falmouth and Mevagissey
  • 103 The Lizard, Falmouth and Helston
  • 102 Land's End

  • Read personal journals of walking on the South West Coast Path in the LDP Directory

Cornish Coast Path map

Statistics:
Start: Portloe Estimated Time: 6 hours
Start (OS ref): SW938394 Difficulty: Hard
Finish: Mawnan Smith Total Climbing: 798 metres
Finish (OS ref): SW778287 Longest Climb: 72 metres
Maps: OS 107, 105
(see above for details)
Longest Descent: 80 metres
  Hazards: Some roadside walking
Distance: 14 miles (22.5 km) Refreshments: Portscatho, St Mawes, Falmouth

Part 4 - Portloe to Mawnan Smith (14 miles)

Portloe coastline Portscatho
The morning sun lights the sea outside Portloe A seascape near Portscatho

I think we all got a good nights sleep in good digs, despite the efforts of the parrot and cockerel chorus. Refreshed but still weary we set off from Portloe together. I was still suffering with my feet and had to wear a boot on my left foot and a shoe on my right but I knew I could walk. We kept to the coastal path for the first leg of the day round Nare Head, Gerrans Bay and Portscatho. Well, nearly all the way as we did cut through a hedge into a clover field where we were forced to scale barbed wire fences to get back on the path. "Keep to the blooming route, you two don't know where you're going" exclaimed Dave. From there we decided to cut inland to St Just in Roseland via roads and bridleways. We were all looking for ways to ease our way through today.

Balancing act St Mawes
Dave shows off his balancing skills A leafy lane walk near St Mawes

The road work was stiff but not as hard as rounding Zone Point would have been and via the road and grassy field paths we headed into St Mawes to get the Ferry to Falmouth. Dropping into St Mawes was very scenic as we watched yachting including a race in Falmouth Bay. We caught the Ferry to Falmouth but as we disembarked I had another crisis. Once again my feet were suffering and to cap it all my shoe fell apart, I had no choice, I must get some more boots here and now. The same thing had happened during the 1994 & 1999 Coast to Coast Walks. My stamina is fine but my feet, ankles and knees are susceptible to heavy continuous work with a load on my back. Despite all my walking at home and at weekends I cannot simulate these long hauls so I must be prepared to go through this every time I don the large rucksack. As we left the ferry on the Falmouth side I spotted a cafe and a Millets store opposite. After a pot of tea I went to Millets and bought a new pair of canvas Trailfinder boots. I have exactly the same type in the boot of my car! They were to be my saviour though.

St Mawes Ferry Mawnan Smith
Dave and Steve look out on Falmouth Bay The bedraggled boys trudge into Mawnan Smith

After donning the boots we left Falmouth, or at least walked around it trying find a road to Mawnan Smith. Steve barged a shopper out of his way in the high street. Eventually, as the rain started we left Falmouth behind and for the next two hours walked the roads with Cornish signposts that mocked us to Mawnan. Mileposts didn't change their reflection of distance despite us walking for some time between them, and the rain came down. At least I was stronger and walked with some purpose for the first time since the Looe leg. These boots were working. The boys stopped for a break and I marched on to Mawnan. A post said 1.5 miles so I put my head down for 2,000 paces. I trudged them out and looked up to view the village. No way, a corner, a straight, a corner, a corner, a straight, Cornish plonkers! And then just as I began to doubt the road I was on I spotted a sign, Mawnan bloody Smith, yippee. I walked to the local Spar shop, bought a Lucozade, watched the shop close (it was gone 5.30pm now) and then sat on a wet bench, I did't care. I waited on the bench to see Steve and Dave, the bedraggled pair walk in. What a bummer of a walk it was from Falmouth. We got to the digs, why is it the last house in the village? Knocked on the door, guy opened the door and winked, Steve missed his gesture. "No booking here" he said, "You're joking" gasped Steve. He was joking and then we were in. I squeezed out more pus from my ailing feet before we went out to the only pub in the village. We had a laugh, got merry, went back to our digs, witnessed a torrential storm, fell asleep no problem. We all had a good nights sleep this time despite the storms outside.

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